If there's another Nigerian bakery somewhere in the five boroughs, I haven't heard of it. Following the launch of its wholesale business and an appearance at October's independence day festival, Naira opened to the public on the former site of a Cypress Hills, Brooklyn, coffee shop.
The baker prepares several variations on agege (ah-Gay-gay) bread, named for a densely populated neighborhood in her first home, Lagos. The bread is very soft, with a lot of "draw," and, especially in the case of this onibeji or "twin" loaf, can readily be pulled apart for sharing. Agege bread is very sweet, too. It's a worthy foil to dense and often spicy West African stews and pottages, such as ewa agoyin. Naira serves that thick bean stew (shown at bottom), as well as meat pies and fish rolls, at its retail counter.
Naira Bread
2565 Atlantic Ave. (at Alabama Ave.), Cypress Hills, Brooklyn,
646-493-4065
www.NairaBread.com
