In some quarters, spaetzle are confined to the dinner table. The flour dumplings often accompany generously sauced dishes such as beef gulasch or paprika chicken, both of which appear on this Austrian restaurant's evening menu. But at Werkstatt, spaetzle also do a daytime turn: In eiernockerl, the dumplings are deftly scrambled with bacon and egg, then accented by sparingly dressed tomato, cucumber, cabbage, and potato salads. For the brunch prix fixe ($15), the sprightliest potent potable is a grapefruit hefeweizen.
Disclosure: A principal of Werkstatt is an acquaintance of many years (more than I have fingers and toes), and a chicken liver terrine was provided on the house. For photos of the terrine and its bacon onion marmalade, several dishes ordered a la carte, and a distant view that suggests the breeziness of the side-street dining room, see the EIT page on Facebook.
Werkstatt
509 Coney Island Ave. (at Turner Pl.), Ditmas Park, Brooklyn
718-284-5800
www.WerkstattBrooklyn.com
