What can be a crazy quilt of curious toppings, and not the crust, distinguishes Brazilian pizzas from their New York counterparts. One of this pizzeria's 40-some named varieties, the Baiana — named for a state of northeast Brazil — was to our surpise rather modestly colored, primarily because the green olives, hardboiled eggs, and linguiça Calabresa were largely shrouded by mozzarella. In retrospect, our addition of catupiry, creamy cheese that was squiggled over half of the pie, might have been an overreach even by exuberant Baiano standards. Large pie ($19, plus $2 for the extra cheese).
Brazilian Pizza
97 Wilson Ave. (Hensler-Darcy Sts.), Newark, New Jersey
973-817-9400
www.BrazilianPizza.com
