Eating In Translation

Temptation Chocolates

In 1902, three Greek-American brothers by the name of Gallanis "launched into the manufacture and retailing of their now celebrated 'Temptation' chocolate" with a small retail shop. Gallanis Bros., as the company was simply known, added a wholesale line in 1912, then commissioned the construction of the factory and warehouse facility shown here, and completed in 1917.

A brief 1924 account in the U.S.-based, Greek-language newspaper Saloniki, later translated with W.P.A. funding, spoke to the growing success of Gallanis Bros. and Temptation Chocolates, yet the company apparently vanished from the public eye by the 1930s.

Temptation Chocolates
Surviving signage at 1929 South Halsted St. (West 19th Pl.-South Canalport Ave.), Chicago
(From a June 2016 visit)

Orwashers Bakery

The original, Upper East Side location of this century-old bakery stocks "carefully curated items to enjoy with our breads." At the newer, larger Upper West location, which also offers a coffee menu and a seating area, many suggested pairings have already been put into practice — no assembly required. To wit: fig-and-ricotta toast ($6) on multigrain bread "with a dash of honey."

Previously: A full loaf of the massive "levain locale" would tip the scales at more than six pounds. My wedge (about a pound, $5) provided the armature for not a few sandwiches, though I confess to eating several slices straight up. The levain, baked in a limited edition for the New Amsterdam Market (now closed) and risen through "100 percent natural fermentation," had a rapturous sour flavor.

Orwashers Bakery
440 Amsterdam Ave. (at West 81st St.), Manhattan
646-461-7929
Also at 308 East 78th St. (First-Second Aves.)
212-288-6569
www.Orwashers.com

International Cafe

Pig snout was an option, I saw, while eyeing a tray of steam-table feijoada, the beloved Brazilian pork-and-beans stew. After a moment's consideration, I ladled out a more prosaic, snout-free serving — at the end of a long day on my feet, fork-tender was the path of less resistance.

Also shown: farofa, whose sandy appearance belies the deliciousness of coarse toasted cassava flour when scattered over Brazilian meats, and two preparations of couve, collard greens sliced in the typical thin ribbons. The brighter green portion was simply steamed; the darker green (largely hidden underneath) was apparently sauteed in butter.

International Cafe
103 Adee St. (King-North Main Sts.), Port Chester, New York
914-939-1002
www.Facebook.com/International-Cafe-108132459227978

Surviving signage, seen in outline

Traces of two old signs are shown here from a vantage beneath the elevated 7 train line in Long Island City. One, for the long-gone confectioner Ridley's, is rendered in cursive letters on the building face; the other, for a company still in business today, is represented by the large metal armature looming above. It's not the usual rectangle, I'd noticed many times, but until recently I'd given little thought to the odd shape. Before peeking at a period photo of the sign in its prime (you'll need to scroll down a bit), can you supply the missing brand name?

Surviving signage, seen in outline
34-09 Queens Blvd. (seen from the 34th St. side), Long Island City, Queens

White Gold Butchers

(This venue is closed.) Roast beef sandwich on a kaiser roll with horseradish cream, Boston bibb lettuce, and pickled red onions ($8).

White Gold Butchers
375 Amsterdam Ave. (at 78th St.), Manhattan
212-362-8731
www.Facebook.com/WhiteGoldButchers

Saraswati Cultural Association Diwali

Is there ever a reason to pair hot bhaji (Bah-jee) with cold bread? Not by my lights, or by Vatan's. At its Diwali festival stall, that restaurant buttered soft rolls, or pav (Pow), and toasted them on the tawa alongside a vibrant vegetable curry. As served, pav bhaji can be assembled into a sandwich, but it's customary instead to use the pav as a utensil, wiping up bhaji bit by bit like a very sloppy sloppy joe.

Saraswati Cultural Association Diwali
Exchange Place (vicinity of Montgomery and Greene Sts.), Jersey City
www.SCAofNJ.org
(The 2016 celebration was held on October 16)

New York Bakery

This isn't a bakery. And, despite the trio of Korean daily newspapers stacked on the counter and a handful Korean noodle soups advertised only in Hangul, the menu hasn't been devoted to Korean food in ages. But this is a very New York establishment: Years ago, the husband-and-wife owners reportedly hired a Mexican cook, who helped them expand the menu of their home country with popular dishes from her home country.

Today the bill of fare features the likes of burritos, quesadillas, and these fish tacos (three for $8), weighty with breaded whiting and, on request, turbocharged with salsa verde. When I also signed on for onions and cilantro, husband and wife interrupted their Korean conversation to confirm my preference: "con todo."

Alas, this tiny kitchen will close at the end of October; prospects for a new location are unclear. H/T Jeremiah's Vanishing New York regarding the imminent closing.

New York Bakery
51 West 29th St. (Sixth Ave.-Broadway), Manhattan
212-213-2838
Breakfast and lunch only; closed Sunday

Patisserie Salzburg

Plum tart ($4.25).

Patisserie Salzburg
77 Purchase St. (at Purdy Ave.), Rye, New York
914-921-4458
Also at 1 Christie Pl. (East Pkwy.-Chase Rd.), Scarsdale, New York
914-472-8300
www.PatisserieSalzburg.com

Muttley Royale

Croque monsieur meets Jersey Shore: French toast grilled cheese with pork roll ($7).

Muttley Royale
Various locations in downtown Jersey City
www.Facebook.com/Muttley-Royale-1771536633118199

Spicy sweet-potato noodles stall

Sweet potatoes, after they've been roasted, mashed into dough, and transformed into glass noodles, are translucent and slippery but no longer sweet. Their flavor profile is readily conveyed to English readers by the words "Sichuan cuisine" on the hanging sign, although the proprietors — like the folks at a recently opened stall in Flushing's New World Mall food court — come from neighboring Chongqing. The basic bowl ($5) is mild-mannered, but a small arsenal of intensifying condiments awaits your pleasure.

Spicy sweet-potato noodles stall
Queens International Night Market
Behind the New York Hall of Science, 47-01 111th St. (inside Flushing Meadows Corona Park), Queens
www.Facebook.com /QueensNightMarket
Saturday evenings (the 2016 season finale is October 29)