Despite the misleading pronunciation, the rice noodles in Cambodian kuy teav (kuh Tee-oh, $15) are cousins to the kway teow of the Southeast Asian Chinese diaspora. I prefer the latter noodles stir-fried, with ample wok hei, but rice noodles in a broth that's brimming with beefy fragrance have my newfound appreciation.
Also shown, at another appearance by this pop-up kitchen: ngiom, or cabbage salad (on this evening, with chicken, $10); yucca with coconut milk ($6). Kreung itself is named for a family of seasoning blends that are essential to Khmer cookery, including at least one particularly fiery dip for fresh vegetables. With good fortune, I'll revisit that dish at a pop-up someday soon.
Kreung
Various locations
718-930-7277
www.Facebook.com/KreungCambodia
