Eating In Translation

El Pialadero de Guadalajara

That was probably a spoon, partially submerged, in front of my torta ahogada (loosely, "drowned sandwich," with pork carnitas, 61 pesos, or about $3 at the time). But I never had reason to use it — my sandwich was already soaked through with spicy, peppery, tomatoey sauce. That's the whole point of a torta ahogada, whether in a church parking lot or at a full-service restaurant like El Pialadero (which, in addition to the inevitable wad of paper napkins, also supplies a pair of disposable plastic gloves). Afterward, a newfound friend observed that the proper bread for the torta ahogada, a birrote, should be crustier and less susceptible to falling apart. This is not so much an issue if, as I did, you eat your sandwich without a pause.

El Pialadero de Guadalajara
Calle Hamburgo 332 (at Lieja), Mexico City
(one of several locations)
+52 55 5211 7708
www.ElPialaderoDeGuadalajara.mx

Plantain and sweet potato vendor

A "little engine that could" smokestack and a display atop the cart are the proprietor's only come-ons; he has no written signage. He wasn't a talkative fellow, either, except to quote the price of a roasted plantain (10 pesos, about 50 cents at the time) and to ask if I wanted condensed milk (but not in so many words). The photo at bottom shows the bulk of my order, minus a less-than-photogenic plastic fork and the plantain chunk that held it in place.

Plantain and sweet potato vendor
Cart stationed, this afternoon, on the southwest corner of Vizcaínas and Eje Central Lázaro Cárdenas, Mexico City

Snack kiosks

Partially enclosed stands that sell packaged snacks and drinks (but not newspapers or magazines, which belong to another line of business altogether) sit on many street corners in Mexico City. Inside, the proprietor or proprietress has room enough for a seat and, often, a small entertainment system. The first photo (click for a closer look) reveals a video screen beside the bags of crisps.

In the wee hours, the most common purchase at many of these kiosks seems to be a loosie — a single cigarette, exfiltrated by the customer from one of many open packs. A lighter is always at hand, usually hanging from a cord like a bottle opener at a bodega. My own sort of late-night loosie, purchased from the last of these kiosks: an almond milk candy (5 pesos, about 25 cents at the time).

Snack kiosks
Various street corners, Cuauhtémoc, Mexico City

Birria el Güero

"No hay birria chica," the chalkboard menu declares. Most closely associated with the Mexican state of Jalisco, this goat soup — some call it a stew — is served at el Güero in a single hearty size (85 pesos, according to my sketchy notes, or about $4.25 at the time). Spicy broth drenches goat meat freshly chopped to your liking: lean meat only, or backbone, or surtida, the "dealer's choice" of assorted goat parts shown here. The most essential accompaniment is a basket lined with thick tortillas, hand-pressed and griddled moments earlier, and topped off whenever it runs low. I never did see the bottom of that basket.

Birria el Güero
Calle Salvador Díaz Mirón 116 (Jaime Torres Bodet-Calle Naranjo), Colonia Santa María la Ribera, Mexico City

Fuente de sodas Los de Revo San Rafael

I'd tasted a sample of the green nieve, but I just couldn't conjure up the English name. In Spanish, the best that the counterwoman and her colleague could offer was that the topmost Mexican ice — which ultimately sat upon orange, which in turn sat upon aromatic (but hidden) hierba santa — was made from a vegetable and not a fruit. The flavor was mild, and very sugary; perhaps I would have known it sooner with a sprinkle of salt instead. Three scoops (24 pesos, about $1.20 at the time) crowned by nieve de apio — celery.

Fuente de sodas Los de Revo San Rafael
Calle Guillermo Prieto 45 (Calles Jose Rosas Moreno-Ignacio Manuel Altamirano), Mexico City
+52 55 3064 0564
www.SinDelantal.mx/delivery/ciudad-de-mexico-df/fuente-de-sodas-los-de-revo-san-rafael-san-rafael

Church-social food stand

Pambazo de papa y chorizo, a potato-and-pork-sausage sandwich dipped in chili sauce, and griddled (15 pesos, about 75 cents at the time).

Church-social food stand
Courtyard of the Parroquia de los Santos Cosme y Damian
Calle Serapio Rendón 5 (Av. Ribera de San Cosme-Calle Alfonso Herrera), Mexico City
Sunday, 8:30ish till early afternoon

Fruit stand

Guanabana now! Pint of soursop pulp in go-cup (20 pesos, about $1 at the time).

Fruit stand (one of many)
Tianguis Sullivan
Open-air market on Calle James Sullivan between Calles Manuel María Contreras and Jose Rosas Moreno, Mexico City
Sunday, mid-morning till late afternoon
(Saturday's market reportedly offers much less produce, much more apparel, and equally good cooked food)

Tamales Chiapanecos María Geraldine

At first reveal, this is a tamal like many other tamales. A little heftier than most, perhaps, and wrapped not in a corn husk but — a faint scent catches the breeze — a banana leaf. Spoon your way beneath the surface of the masa, however, and memories of lesser tamales, offering only tough shredded meat and monotonous salsas, vanish in a flash.

Tostadas Coyoacán

Two-buck tostada de pulpo (octopus). Not shown: equally well-loaded, equally delicious tostadas de camaron (shrimp) and jaiba (crab), and a flotilla of other options not ventured this day — each about 40 pesos.

H/T Culinary Backstreets

Tostadas Coyoacán
+52 55 5659 8774
www.Facebook.com/Tostadas-Coyoacán-105356546180976
Mercado de Coyoacán, stalls 181 and 182
Ignacio Allende, Del Carmen, Coyoacán, Mexico City
www.CentroDeCoyoacan.mx/que-hacer/mercados-artesanias/Mercado-de-Coyoacan

No se discrimina

Loosely translated, "This restaurant does not discriminate on the basis of race, religion, sexual orientation, physical or socioeconomic condition, or for any other reason." It's a common sign throughout the city.

No se discrimina
Fabio's Restaurante
Ignacio Allende 15, Coyoacán, Mexico City