Georgians — that is, Georgians who hail from the former Soviet republic and not the deep South — love their cheesy khachapuri and their beef-and-lamb-filled khinkali. (Pairing suggestion, in striking green: tarragon soda.) At a glatt kosher restaurant, however, dairy items and meat items can't mingle, either in the kitchen or in the dining room, and many such establishments serve only one or the other.
Marani takes a second approach: two kitchens, two dining rooms, two sets of dishes. There is another kosher Georgian restaurant that goes to similar lengths, but dining there requires a flight to Tel Aviv. Why not ride instead to Rego Park? For further enticement, see my story on Culinary Backstreets.
