Northeastern Thai larb moo (pork liver, stomach, ear; $7) and tum poo plara (green papaya, salted crab, pickled fish; $9). The first is terrific; the second is an acquired taste. Do nibble around the crab legs, but don't bite down on the carapace!
Hug Esan
77-16 Woodside Ave. (77th-78th Sts.), Elmhurst, Queens
929-328-0392
www.HugEsanNYC.com
Closed Wednesday