Here's a good test for tender squid: Squeeze one end between two chopsticks, and nip off the other end with your teeth.
At this humbly outfitted late-night haunt, the lightly "salt baked" cephalopod — in fact, lightly fried — came through in a pinch. Above, it's accompanied by shrimp and scallops. Also shown, from multiple visits over many years: softshell crab, sauteed pea shoots, cuttlefish, roast pig, flowering chives and scallops, jellyfish and thousand-year egg, and e-fu noodles with mushrooms.
Great N.Y. Noodletown
28 Bowery (at Bayard St.), Manhattan
212-349-0923
www.Facebook.com/The-Great-New-York-Noodle-Town-112056315952
