"Muffuletta" describes both a round, sesame-seeded Italian bread and, made from it, a New Orleans sandwich that sports various cold cuts, cheese, and a marinated olive salad. Twin Suns adds sopressata, mortadella, and provolone to a loaf whose crumb is much airier than that of the benchmark, at Central Grocery, but no one can say that it skimps on the seeds. My so-called "big muffuletta" was actually a quarter-muffuletta further divided in two; a full sandwich would have been about the size of a hubcap.
Some call it sacrilege to heat a muffuletta, but by many accounts the practice is not uncommon even in New Orleans. Up north in New York, at Dive Bar, this seems good sense when the customers as well as the sandwiches are dressed in layers. At the counterwoman's suggestion, my Twin Suns muffuletta was toasted, too.
Twin Suns Deli
244 Himrod St. (Kinickerbocker-Irving Aves.), Bushwick, Brooklyn
718-484-9291
www.TwinSunsDeli.com
