Ham and black beans — jostling with juicy pork, shreds of the bland white Oaxacan cheese called quesillo, and other typically Mexican fillings of this cemita — earns it the moniker "Cubana." Give the nod to "spicy," and a crimsom seam of chipotles is the payoff. You might not detect pápalo by sight; I recognized this herb only from the aftershocks, which are persistent, if you catch my drift.
La Lomita
(name of a takeout-only corner deli and a sit-down restaurant beside it)
3868 Tenth Ave. (204th-207th Sts.), Manhattan
212-567-9355
