"Along with a litany of hearty hot soups — shurpa, lagman, borsch — are two chilled alternatives, one Eastern, one Western. Okroshka ... hails from Russia; this milk-based version is playful, with tiny bits of egg, celery, potato and bologna. Kuksu [shown] ... from Korea, is a beef noodle soup decorated with sesame seeds, pickled cucumber, dill and cabbage. When all that's left is the restorative broth, down it straight from the bowl."
The menu seems little changed since my review of this café, staffed by Russian-speaking ethnic Koreans hailing from Tashkent, Uzbekistan, appeared in The New York Times in 2010. Prices are higher (though my latest kuksu was on the house); the secondary name of the restaurant is now "Eddie Fancy Food" (and not "Elza"). Although the Brighton Beach restaurant, close by the boardwalk, has closed, the ambiance at the remaining location is just as homey, if snug. For more photos, see my collection on Flickr.
Café at Your Mother-in-Law (a.k.a. Eddie Fancy Food)
With a few tables, but better-suited for takeout, at 8611 19th Ave. (86th St.-Benson Ave.), Bath Beach, Brooklyn
718-234-1940
www.Facebook.com/CafeAtYourMotherInLaw
