Mimicry takes many forms. Mexican chicharrones de harina, for example, conjure the crunch and, when processed with lard, the taste of fried pork skin. But no one will mistake those wheat-flour products for the real thing, especially when the chicharrones have been molded into winsome forms.
These Colombian chicharrones guayabas gesture instead with their looks. According to an owner (who offered my pastry on the house), the notches on one long edge evoke the appearance of many an actual chicharrĂ³n. The taste is sweet, however, and, owing to a core of guava paste, a little tart.
Parceros Bakery
63-54 Woodhaven Blvd. (Penelope Ave.-Dana Ct.), Rego Park, Queens
718-424-8444
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