When in Queens, ask for helado (eh-Lah-doe) and you might get ice cream, but that common translation from the Spanish — literally, the name means "frozen" — also embraces housemade ice pops. My milk ice, from this Colombian bakery-restaurant, was an helado de chicle (Chee-clay), which I had hoped, perhaps unreasonably, might offer some of the chewiness and elastic consistency of certain Middle Eastern ice creams. Instead it sported the color and flavor, but not the texture, of bubble gum; the payload at the bottom seemed to have been a pair of malted-milk balls. Next time: helado de mango biche.
Los Cafetales Bakery & Restaurant
7811 Roosevelt Ave. (78th-79th Sts.), Jackson Heights, Queens
718-255-1922
