Wat dan hor is decoded on the check, though not on the menu of this Malaysian restaurant, as "seafood scrambled egg chow fun." Broad rice noodles (hor fun, or chow fun) are briskly wok-fried, then covered in a gravy that's been insinuated with silky strands of egg. Served at once, the noodles lap up sauce yet keep their wok hei, the lightly charred character sometimes poetically translated as the "breath of the wok."
Koo Koo Chicken
1698 86th St. (at 17th Ave.), Bensonhurst, Brooklyn
718-837-1688
www.KooKooChicken.nyc
