The fetchingly named tián shāo bái (甜烧白), "sweet burnt white," was also dispassionately described on the tabletop specials menu as "steamed pork with glutinous rice and red bean paste." Judging by online recipes, the platform of rice was probably prepared with brown sugar; the bean paste was sandwiched between thin slices of pork belly. The crown of granulated sugar is an option that seems to be as often omitted as observed — but for diners unfamiliar with this traditional Sichuan dish (like me), it certainly sent a signal. Pork belly for dessert, anyone?
Previous lessons from a Sichuan lunch: Cumin, beguiling as a complement to lamb with chile pepper, was even more enticing when liberally applied to crisp-skinned, tender cubes of fried tofu. We scarfed up the leavings with torn shreds of lettuce.
Szechuan House
133-47 Roosevelt Ave. (College Point Blvd.-Prince St.), Flushing, Queens
718-762-2664
