This casserole of eggplant and vermicelli might never look lovely, but it shimmers with the appeal of spicy, seafood-charged XO sauce. As for the use, on a Taiwanese restaurant menu, of the Italian word "vermicelli" when reaching out to English speakers, nowadays this is de rigueur.
Other tempting dishes: string beans and bean curd; salt-and-pepper chicken; smoked duck.
OK Canaan
4318 Main St. (Cherry-Dahlia Aves.), Flushing, Queens
718-886-8844
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