Eating In Translation

Nansen Lodge Scandinavian Heritage Fair

One lapskaus — a Norwegian stew, double-plated to support the weight of corned beef, potatoes, carrots, and turnips — led to many desserts. Apart from kringler, prepared by the venerable Holtermann's Bakery and doled out two slices per portion, all of the baked goods were homemade. (Not quite half appear in these photos.) Many had been fashioned by the hands of the lady who served me, notably a ring-shaped, glazed applesauce cake with crushed pecans (also shown at bottom). That cake, like all the desserts, was just a dollar; it seemed prudent to take my seconds to go.

Nansen Lodge Scandinavian Heritage Fair
Nansen Lodge, 3465 Victory Blvd. (Graham-Travis Aves.), Travis, Staten Island
www.Facebook.com/pages/Nansen-Lodge-Social-Club-Inc/117837564908551
(The 2019 fair was held on September 14)

African Heritage Cultural Festival

I admired the deep blue headwrap of the woman grilling the chicken. It called out, and intensified, the paler shade on the green, white, and blue flag of Sierra Leone, hanging nearby. The colors of my black-eyed peas and joloff rice (a complimentary plate) came from palm oil and tomato respectively — but perhaps I could have kept in mind the roadside stand I'd seen minutes before, just around the corner, brimming with bushel-sized mesh bags of brilliantly orange, yellow, and red chili peppers. Scotch bonnets, or something like them.

And I should have taken note (and accepted) when the woman held out a bottle of water so matter-of-factly. Those were some mighty hot peas.

African Heritage Cultural Festival
Park Hill Ave. between Osgood Ave. and Sobel Ct., Park Hill, Staten Island
www.Eventbrite.com/e/african-heritage-cultural-festival-tickets-72345253601
(The 2019 festival took place on September 28)

Phil-Am Foods

Although this batch was shelved in a refrigerator case, with the desserts, pichi pichi are sometimes considered a heavy snack owing to their principal ingredient, grated cassava. The stodginess of the cassava is mitigated by sugar, coconut shavings, and, often, added flavor, in this case langka, jackfruit. Also shown: a handwritten sign at the point of purchase for a decidedly salty snack, keeping warm and under cover. Balut will wait for another day.

Phil-Am Foods
527 Tompkins Ave. (Virginia-Clifton Aves.), Rosebank, Staten Island
718-876-6948
www.PhilAmSI.com

Tamales Martita

Tender as can be: a trio of tacos de cabeza, featuring luscious chunks of beef cheek. The menu has much to explore (not all of it is posted on the fridge); weekend mornings are busiest.

Tamales Martita
99 Port Richmond Ave. (Ann-Bennett Sts.), Port Richmond, Staten Island
718-524-7758
www.Facebook.com/TamalesMartitaNY

Rosemarie Bakery

The trees are still green, but the cookies have started to turn color: an autumn-themed lagniappe, handed through a window open to the sidewalk.

Rosemarie Bakery
155 Port Richmond Ave. (Vreeland-New Sts.), Port Richmond, Staten Island
718-816-1585
www.RosemarieBakery.com

Tomi Bakery

Delicate swan-necked pastries, and a crumb-topped yet sturdy blueberry cake: Regular EIT readers will gather, with little trouble, which of these was merely a photo op and which was my dessert.

Tomi Bakery
171 8th St. (Passaic-South Sts.), Passaic, New Jersey
973-777-9127
www.TomiBakery.com
Closed Monday

JK Los Poblanos

I spotted Tepachito brand tepache, a tart beverage lightly fermented from pineapple rinds, on a refreshment break during a long afternoon's exploration. The awning of this supermercado justly proclaims a "gran variedad de frutas y vegetales frescos," pineapples included. But even in northern Passaic, a neighborhood with a lively Poblanx population, I've found tepache only in bottles, never in barrels. Compare this encounter in the narrow aisles of Tianguis Sullivan, Mexico City.

JK Los Poblanos
106 Market St. (Madison-Mercer Sts.), Passaic, New Jersey
973-955-4370
www.Facebook.com/JK-Los-Poblanos-258051804664924

Morenada Señorial Gran Kermesse

Chajchu (Chahk-chew), a dish associated with the city of Cochabamba, suggests a Bolivian chef's salad. For this version, shredded beef, hardboiled egg, sliced fresh cheese, and broad beans were laced with slivers of green onion, then dressed with a spicy salsa and slices of tomato, onion, and chili pepper. Rather than leaf vegetables, however, those ingredients rested upon a bed of potatoes (shown below) — Andean chuños, freeze-dried and reconstituted, and U.S. spuds. Have no doubt: This was a plato fuerte, not a side salad.

Morenada Señorial Gran Kermesse
285 Monroe St. (Hamilton-Hoover Aves.), Passaic, New Jersey
www.Facebook.com/MorenadaSenorial/photos/a.513657872115591/1338284816319555
(The autumn 2019 event was held on September 21)

Spearmint

Surviving signage for Wrigley's gum — note the characteristic arrow that frames the italicized capital letters — Passaic, New Jersey

The Freakin Rican

Chicharrones aren't always pork rinds. They might also be pollo — chicken — cut into chunks, exquisitely spiced, and deep-fried. You can enjoy them in a restaurant setting, with knife and fork, but chicharrones de pollo are even better at outdoor events, where you can carry them off by the bagful. "Free-range" is good for festival-goers, too.

The Freakin Rican
On the afternoon in question, at one of the many events listed on the proprietor's online food festival calendar
Most other days, at 4306 34th Ave. (43rd-44th Sts.), Astoria, Queens
929-349-1080
www.TheFreakinRicanRestaurant.com
Closed Monday and Tuesday