Compared with our table's garlic-strewn chicken tabaka (above), plov (first photo below) was unlovely. But, for readers who might have been force-fed too many prettified pictures, an observation that bears repeating: Looks are often less important than long-cooked flavor. This Bukharian version of the rice dish was exceptional, and the beef was particularly tender. It's a dish that must be ordered in advance; good thing the kitchen had prepared enough for a second portion.
Also shown: lamb rib kebabs; a lamb fat kebab; manti, stuffed with lamb, beef, and onion, and steamed; a salad.
Ganey Orly
6537 99th St. (65th Rd.-66th Ave.), Rego Park, Queens
718-459-1638
www.GaneyOrly.com
Closed midafternoon Friday through Saturday evening
