Mine were meant to be burdock rice rolls, but perhaps Jin Ma was running short of the root crop; for the same low price, lots of beef was piled on, too. When I took a breather, a fellow customer offered that this shop serves homey, "country" cooking of a sort not generally found in restaurants. I didn't think to ask her about the secret behind another dish, which I still know only from a handwritten sign.
Jin Ma Bakery
8622 Broadway (at Justice Ave., inside a mini food court), Elmhurst, Queens
646-258-7011
www.JinMaBakery.com