The faint topping, so thin it might have been brushed on, is crumbly, sweet, and reminiscent of a concha. What this Cantonese bakery calls a "Mexican bun" tells a story of exile and return between Old World and New.
Why this Chinese shop took its "Malay" name is another story of migration, I imagine.
Malay Bakery
6919 New Utrecht Ave. (Bay Ridge Ave.-70th St.), Bensonhurst, Brooklyn
718-256-2626
