Machaca con huevo, shredded dried beef scrambled with egg, is a breakfast standard in the northwestern Mexican state of Sinaloa. I never did try it at the short-lived Elmhurst restaurant Sinaloense, so I'm glad the chef has found a new home in the kitchen of a rebranded Dominican bakery. (Ownership is unchanged, as many bizcochos and at least one small bandera will testify.)
Alongside the machaca is an unbilled and unassuming accompaniment, frijoles puercos, beans that have been stewed in lard and imbued with chorizo, vinegared chiles, and cheese. (A representative photo that would convey this richness is near-impossible.) At Sinaloense the beans were also brightened by green olives, but the chef found that they're not to everyone's taste, according to the counterwoman. Even so, she observed, if spread on bread these beans alone could make a meal.
H/T Taco Literacy and Eat the World NYC
Mi Dulce México
3558 97th St., Corona, Queens
718-533-9999
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