This restaurant serves five varieties of kou wan — literally, "invert bowl," or upend the cooking vessel, over the serving plate. Even when dining in, the practice is not universal, and it certainly would have been unwise at an improvised setting by the roadside. My bowl featured 16 loose-knit pork meatballs in anise-scented broth. A small surcharge added a portion of roughly torn wheat noodles for which the province of Henan, breadbasket of central China, is also famous.
Henan Flavor (aka Henan Fengwei)
136-31 41st Ave. (Main-Union Sts., downstairs), Flushing, Queens
718-762-1818
