Melted provolone, and broccoli rabe sautéed in garlic and olive oil, add an edgy bite to roast beef in the "Ray Donovan" (above). It's subtle, by comparison, to "hot roast beef with mutz and gravy" (below, from back when), in which pan drippings add intense flavor to oven-warmed meat and fresh mozzarella.
John's Deli
2033 Stillwell Ave. (Ave. T-86th St.), Gravesend, Brooklyn
718-372-7481
www.TheOriginalJohnsDeli.com