Which slice for you? This charming hand-drawn menu of cozonaci (co-zo-Nah-chee), a family of sweet Romanian breads, depicts cross-sections of nuca, stafide, mac, rahat, simplu, and ciocolata — walnut, raisin, poppy, Turkish delight, plain, and chocolate.
Of course, bakers and customers just can't cut into the loaves willy-nilly to see which is which. The intact cozonaci indicate their fillings, too, by the shape of the loaf and by decoration; a few are shown in the following photo. One wears a single walnut, another exposes a vein of poppy seeds.
Coffee and a cozonac was the natural pairing for me. (On this day, Nita's was selling slices, but often one must buy the whole loaf.) The menu board suggests another pairing, however, that was enthusiastically endorsed by the counterwoman: cozonaci and wine.
Previously: In aggregate, saleuri (Sal-lee-Ooh) resemble a break-it-apart pan flute. These savory breadsticks are enriched with butter and cheese — a tangy white variety called telemea is traditional — and sprinkled with the likes of caraway, poppy, or cumin.
Sweeter, to various degrees, and from numerous other visits: poppy seed, apricot, and cheese and raisin cake squares; a macaroon; raspberry-walnut rugelach; and a Linzer torte cookie. Also known as a Linzer sablé, this offspring of the fabled Austrian latticed cake customarily sports raspberry jam, though at Nita's apricot, hazelnut, and red currant reportedly also make appearances.
Nita's European Bakery
40-10 Greenpoint Ave. (40th-41st Sts.), Sunnyside, Queens
718-784-4047
https://Nitas-European-Bakery.business.site
