So much better than any donut hole: a gulab jamun (in biteaway view), courtesy of the counterman. He'd just wrapped up my takeout order of maghaz (shown below) — a splendid rendition, it turned out. But he wasn't sure whether this Friday special, a Pakistani masala, was prepared from the brains of cows, sheep, or goats. I'm sure he could have stepped into the kitchen to inquire, but I didn't want to press a fellow who'd just handed me a gulab jamun.
Bismillah Kabab House
2160 Bath Ave. (Bay 29th St.-Bay Pkwy.), Bath Beach, Brooklyn
718-487-9592
www.DoorDash.com/store/Bismillah-Kabab-House-Brooklyn-611980