"Qada" is the name at this Georgian bakery; the seeming cognate "gata" is typical in Georgia's neighbors Armenia and Azerbaijan. Back home, by reputation, it varies from region to region, even village to village, but the qada (and gata) of South Brooklyn tend toward one common style: a laminated pastry, burnished on top, enfolding more richness than sweetness. In fact this is an Armenian Georgian rendition, a counterwoman explained; the shop also prepares another, purely Georgian, version that I have yet to try.
This sparingly sweet, buttery qada is surely wonderful with tea, provided that one can wait till teatime. Best to buy several. Also shown: a quark and apple cake ("We call them 'bananas'," another counterwoman told me); and churchkhela, a confection prepared by threading nuts onto a string, dipping them repeatedly in grape must, and air-drying them. The display below includes two varieties of housemade churchkhela, with hazelnuts and with walnuts.
Georgian Deli and Bakery
2270 86th St. (Bay 32nd St.-23rd Ave.), Gravesend, Brooklyn
718-280-9119
www.GeorgianDB.com
