Excellent fries cradle a Karađorđeva (Kah-rah-JEOR-Jeh-vah), a schnitzel-like pork cutlet rolled around kaymak, breaded, deep-fried, and ultimately topped, improbably but compellingly, with tartar sauce. Read about the Serbian specialties served at Pera Ždera (aka Peter Eater) in Glendale, Queens, on Culinary Backstreets.