The heart of the Italian beef sandwich, a stalwart of the Windy City, is wet-roasted in seasoned broth, then sliced thin. The giardiniera on this one ($5.95) was stoked with hot peppers.
See also Cheeburger Cheeburger.
Billy Goat Tavern & Grill
O'Hare Airport, Terminal 1, concourse C (post-security), Chicago
www.BillyGoatTavern.com
It's a wonder one doesn't find molletes wherever tortas are sold — both sandwiches are made with the same bread. The mollete is open-faced, spread with refried beans (in this case, black beans) and a melted layer of mild, cow's milk chihuahua cheese (here, blended with tangier cotija). The defining note in this mollete ($6) is Nueske's applewood-smoked bacon.
Tortas Frontera
O'Hare Airport, Terminal 1, concourse B (post-security), Chicago
www.RickBayless.com/restaurants/tortas.html
Final call: kopi-O, coffee with sugar, no milk; toast spread with butter and the coconut jam called kaya; and a pair of half-boiled eggs, for dipping (breakfast set, S$4, about US$3 at the time).
Killiney Kopitiam
Changi Airport, terminal 1, post-security, Singapore
(One of many locations)
www.Killiney-Kopitiam.com
(From a summer 2010 visit)
Chicago's Billy Goat Tavern inspired a well-known Saturday Night Live sketch, which in turn may have inspired this national chain with a station in JFK's JetBlue terminal.
Perhaps it was the brown bear, stuffed and posed with one paw over a fresh-killed marten, that got my appetite juiced for red meat, but a reindeer dog ($3.75) was the best the cafeteria could manage this morning on my layover between Taipei and JFK. No more flavor than a hot dog, but only 25 cents more out of pocket. Curly fries ($2.75) were very good.
Cross Point Anchorage International Cafeteria
Anchorage International Airport
Rice burger with pork (NT90). Dry; fork required.
Tycoons Coffee
Chiang-kai Shek International Airport, Taipei
It's just a new concept for the local chain Legal Seafoods, said my server; the recipes are all well-tried. My second pass of the day at Rhode Island Style calamari ($9.95) was overfried and dry; with garlic and (not so) hot peppers. Tamed for the airport crowd, most likely; I would have preferred to try the Logan version of Summer Shack's exemplary calamari, but "open whenever there are flights" doesn't apply to their kitchen. My flight was pushed back an hour, too, but at the end of a long day, a pint of Sam Adams ($4.95) was especially good.
Legal's Test Kitchen
Logan Airport, Terminal A, Space 23, Boston
617-568-1888
Thank you!
