Eating In Translation

Sami's Kabab House: Afghan in Astoria

"Many of the best-known dishes of Afghanistan ... resemble those of neighboring countries along the Silk Routes that long ago connected China and the Mediterranean. ... Our lamb kabab, however tender, would look like many other New York kababs except for the accompanying heap of Qabuli pulao, steamed rice caparisoned in raisins and julienned carrots. The sweetness of the raisins, and especially the carrots, wonderfully complements the fluffiness of the rice and juiciness of the meat. In Afghanistan, lavish versions of Qabuli pulao are prepared for celebratory occasions; in Astoria, we can celebrate whenever we like." Read more on Culinary Backstreets.

Super Heroes: Our Favorite Italian Sandwich Shops in Queens

After we carried off our Godfather hero, "we found a place to spread out nearby at an out-of-service 'streetery' — one of the ad hoc dining areas that allowed New York restaurants to serve customers outdoors during the pandemic, when indoor dining was prohibited. That's where we learned that the Godfather could literally stop traffic. As we posed ours for a photo, a car pulled up alongside, and a fellow leaned out the window to ask where we'd bought it. We pointed back up the street, and his car made a U-turn in that direction. Evidently, this was a sandwich he couldn't refuse." Read more on Culinary Backstreets.

Foda Egyptian Sandwiches: Falafel Mavens

(This venue is closed.) Sautéed beef liver — deposited, with its pan juices, onto the absorbent inner surface of homemade fino (Fee-no) bread — is a specialty of Foda Egyptian Sandwiches. Read about this Astoria street cart and its hard-working namesake on Culinary Backstreets.

Selo Restaurant

Balkan brunch: uštipci (oosh-Teep-see), dense, bready fried dough with prosciutto, Serbian bacon, and kajmak (Kye-mak). Also served, if you prefer, with rose hip jam and Nutella.

H/T @Garsleat

Selo Restaurant
3305 Broadway (33rd-34th Sts.), Astoria, Queens
718-932-0101
www.Facebook.com/SeloNYC

Guelaguetza NYC

Tacos al pastor, with pineapple, and de carnitas, largely hidden beneath onion and cilantro, by a New Jersey visitor to this annual New York festival.

Guelaguetza NYC
Socrates Sculpture Park, 3201 Vernon Blvd. (at Broadway), Astoria, Queens
www.Facebook.com/events/262698332282852
(The 2021 festival was held on July 25)

Merguez & Frites

Thinner, crisper, and perhaps a tad tangier than Philly tomato pie: a square of olive-adorned Algerian-style pizza.

H/T Queens Qustodian and Food and Footprints

Merguez & Frites
4006 25th Ave. (Steinway-41st Sts.), Astoria, Queens
718-255-6253
www.RestaurantAstoria.com

Fried Fellowship: Building Community Around Loukoumades in Queens

Some are rings, perhaps lightly kissed by sour cherry syrup. Others are golden orbs, fully loaded in many possible combinations. Both styles are delicious. But at Cafe Boulis and Gold N Honey, two Queens shops whose loukoumades look as different as can be, a sense of community is just as important as any menu item. Read more on Culinary Backstreets.

Christos Souvlaki

Some prefer the chicken; this was pork, dressed only with lemon and salt.

Christos Souvlaki
Cart on 31st St. near the southwest corner with 23rd Ave., Astoria, Queens
www.Facebook.com/pages/Christos%20Souvlaki%20Stand/369882330416969

Veggie Stop

A taamia burger, featuring a patty of the namesake Egyptian falafel (taameya is a more typical spelling) plus arugula, beet, onion, tahini, and tomato. My one quibble — warm that bun!

Veggie Stop
Truck parked on 31st St. to the west of Ditmars Blvd., Astoria, Queens
www.Facebook.com/VeggieStopOfficial

Gold n Honey

You could easily summon an Olympian donut sundae, if so tempted at this specialty shop, by adding an excess of fillings, sauces, ice cream, and toppings to your order of loukoumades (Loo-koo-Mah-thez). Crushed pistachios were my modest addition to the classic syrup and cinnamon. Lots of larger nutty bits refused to cling to the Greek fritters; they also eluded the shop's tiny wooden skewers but not my fingers.

H/T Tray Moons

Gold n Honey
2503 Ditmars Blvd. (Crescent-26th Sts.), Astoria, Queens
www.Instagram.com/GoldnHoneyNYC