Treska might have been the tipping point. Dining alone, after polishing off an appetizer of the vinegary fish-and-mayo salad, I turned to a plate of halušky (ha-Loosh-key), potato spaetzle with salty sheep's cheese and, implicitly, bacon. It would have been wiser to finish only as much halušky as pictured below rather than clearing the plate of the entire, weighty, portion. A takeout container for leftovers also respects the chef and helps leave room for dessert.
Also shown at this Czechoslovak restaurant, from a special menu enjoyed with friends in a past year: venison meatloaf and goose pate; venison loin with garlic.
Koliba Restaurant
3111 23rd Ave. (31st-32nd Sts.), Astoria, Queens
718-626-0430
www.KolibaRestaurant.com
Closed Monday