Eating In Translation

Kitchen at Cobble Hill

There's beet in the salad and the borscht, too. This Eastern European cafe serves more than a dozen superpremium varieties made by Jane's Ice Cream of Kingston, New York, including the bespoke number seen here (small cup, $3). During recipe development, unmitigated beet proved too sweet, and as churned today, the ice cream is tweaked with dill. Next flavor on the docket: apricot orange blossom.

Previously I wrote that this is the only Brooklyn business that carries Jane's. The comment below (thanks, Peter!) points out another place to find them, at least in sandwich form.

Kitchen at Cobble Hill (formerly known as Karloff)
254 Court St. (Kane-Degraw Sts.), Cobble Hill, Brooklyn
347-689-4279
www.KitchenAtCobbleHill.com

Sky Ice

Durian doesn't play well with others. The spiky husk requires careful handling, to be sure, but the "king of fruits" is most notorious for the pungency of its custardlike flesh. Few shops make durian ice cream, out of concern that the scent will get into everything.

Brooklyn Cured

Because it's made with hefeweizen, a pale wheat beer, and not some darker, stronger brew, this whole-grain beer mustard (about 6 oz., $4) might fade in the presence of heady charcuterie. The texture, however, holds up: While not effervescent, those little mustard grains do pop-pop-pop in your mouth.

Brooklyn Cured
This day, at Brooklyn Flea, 1 Hanson Pl., Fort Greene, Brooklyn; see Twitter for other locations
917-282-2221
www.BrooklynCured.com

Mile End

About the only thing missing is dessert.

Welsh Farms

I caught sight of this delivery truck only after it passed, but I can't imagine that the front-end artwork could be any more revealing than the view from the rear.

Welsh Farms
Delivery truck seen in Boerum Hill, Brooklyn

Cesar's street cart

(This venue is closed, it seems; as of 2014 the cart has been out of sight for several years.) Sometimes it's spelled as one word, sometimes it's chopped in two, but this is the first time I'd seen it on the street.

Van Leeuwen Artisan Ice Cream

Tea, Earl Grey, cold.

Fish & Sip

This Israeli-staffed eatery styles it "fish and chips," but in the little pitcher, that's not tartar sauce, let alone malt vinegar.

Hanco's

Chop, chop.

Felmingo

(This venue is closed.) I ended up at the freezer case, not the fridge.