Taishan cauliflower with onion, a simple stir-fry, posed on a gaming table across the avenue in Leif Ericson Park. (The game at the next table was dominoes; the players spoke a language, not native to Southern China or Latin America, and certainly not to Scandinavia, that I couldn't place.) While waiting for my stir-fry, though a kitchen door I watched a fellow tend the roasting cabinets that won Yee Li so many regular customers at its previous location, in Manhattan's Chinatown. Also shown, from that earlier incarnation: a portion of roast pig.
New Yee Li
6619 Fort Hamilton Pkwy. (66th-67th Sts.), Dyker Heights, Brooklyn
718-833-8373
www.NewYeeLi.com