Chilled, sweet-tart rujak serut — literally salad, shaved — by an Indonesian pop-up that recently relocated from Boston to New York. "Enak!" was the reaction of one commenter on social media. I had to run it through Google Translate, which also indicated that the "k" is a very soft glottal stop, but I concur: "Delicious!"
Kaki Lima
www.Instagram.com/KakiLimaNYC
On this occasion, served at Mad Tropical
236 Troutman St. (Knickerbocker-Wilson Aves.), Bushwick, Brooklyn
www.MadTropical.com
"Flattened": an Ecuadorian "aplanchado," shatteringly crisp puff pastry topped with a stiff layer of icing. Two for a dollar.
Pan Rico Ambateño
302 Knickerbocker Ave. (Hart-Suydam Sts.), Bushwick, Brooklyn
(One of several locations)
Signage apparently uncovered last year and preserved, appropriately enough, outside collectibles and thrift store The Second Time Around
300 Knickerbocker Ave. (Hart-Suydam Sts.), Bushwick, Brooklyn
347-512-2545
Kuey jub is a Thai "hangover helper" whose Vietnamese influences include half-moons of pork loaf and fat, chewy, spoonable noodles. Vinegar with chiles, and chile flakes, are the most accommodating tabletop additions for the rich and restorative bone broth. Served during weekend brunch only.
Tong
321 Starr St. (Cypress-St. Nicholas Aves.), Bushwick, Brooklyn
718-366-0586
www.TongBrooklyn.com
From the Czech Republic by way of Texas and the Midwest, a kolache (ko-Lah-chee or ko-Lah-cheh) is a pastry with a topping of fruit or cheese. Or, in this case, both: sweet cream cheese and blueberry-lemon compote, further adorned with posypka (streusel). I enjoyed two kolaches for the price of one, courtesy of the management.
The logo of Kings Kolache features a hybrid of the Czech and Texan flags; the menu includes breakfast tacos as well as a kolache stuffed with smoked sausage, cheddar, and candied jalapeño. Don't expect to find its like in the motherland. On some weekends, however, the bakery prepares a kolache topped with poppy seeds, lemon, and sweet cheese — a Brooklyn rendition of the Bohemian classic.
Kings Kolache
321 Starr St. (Cypress-St. Nicholas Aves.), Bushwick, Brooklyn
845-614-3226
www.KingsKolache.com
Open only till midafternoon; closed Monday
Walking down Knickerbocker Ave. along Maria Hernandez Park, I saw a gentleman sitting by the curb before a small barrel that contained a smaller tub; with a bowl scraper, he slathered a sunny yellow substance into serving cups. "Mexican ice cream," he told me, though it seemed more like a creamy ice. I've since learned that "nieve" is the usual name — literally "snow," apparently vanilla "sherbet."
That encounter was more than a decade ago. On a recent afternoon I found him preparing four flavors on the spot: limón, melón, vainilla, and (my choice, shown below) tamarindo. A pair of younger arms helped with the paddling.
Nieves vendor
To the west of Maria Hernandez Park, most recently on Suydam St. near the southwest corner with Knickerbocker Ave., Bushwick, Brooklyn
Ready to serve in midafternoon
Leftover post: a vegan Thanksgiving plate of maple braised seitan, fennel chestnut stuffing, chanterelle mushroom gravy, and cranberry sauce. Below: leavings.
Monk's Meats
www.Facebook.com/Monks-Meats-171969866220975
On this afternoon, at the monthly Vegan Shop-Up at Pine Box Rock Shop
12 Grattan St. (Bogart St.-Morgan Ave.), Bushwick, Brooklyn
www.VeganShopUp.wordpress.com
Taiwanese-American breakfast, savory and sweet: milk bun zhu jiao, with egg and braised pork hock, and custard toast.
Win Son Bakery
164 Graham Ave. (at Montrose Ave.), East Williamsburg, Brooklyn
917-909-1725
www.WinSonBrooklyn.com/#/bakery/menu
Sorullos are Puerto Rican corn fritters, often sweet, sometimes filled with ground meat or mild cheese. These sorullitos are a petite version — just the corn — at a petite price.
Note, too, the coloring of the hand-drawn sign, which picks up the green, white, and red of one bandera hanging behind it. Reportedly the proprietor was born in Mexico but has prepared cocina criolla for two decades; my next visit will surely entail the salt cod fritters better known as bacalaitos.
American Coffee Shop
108 Moore St. (at Humboldt St., inside the Moore Street Market, stall 3), East Williamsburg, Brooklyn
718-302-0779
www.Facebook.com/AmericanCoffeeShop.3
Sunday hours unclear; calling ahead would be wise
Good neighborhood Indian, albeit not in my neighborhood: lamb kali mirch (the last two words are Hindi for "black pepper"), crispy okra, and Nawabi jhinga (cream sauce, masala, curry leaves).
Garam Masala
1819 Palmetto St. (Seneca-Onderdonk Aves.), Ridgewood, Queens
347-799-2071
www.GaramMasalaNY.com
Thank you!
