Eating In Translation

Bickford's

"Breakfast at Bickford's" was a tradition, or at the least a dependable fallback, for many New Yorkers during the middle of the last century. These quick-service food shops — under the same ownership, they also went by other names in the Northeast and in the Miami and San Francisco areas — fell into decline during the 1960s and, in New York, disappeared entirely during the 1980s.

The signage seen here was reportedly uncovered in 2000, when a deteriorating metal facade was taken down outside another vanishing breed of New York business, the adult entertainment center.

Bickford's
Surviving signage, 488 Eighth Ave. (34th-35th Sts.), Manhattan

Cafe Niagara

(This venue is closed.) The name is the proprietor's nod to a "beautiful" vacation spot in upstate New York; the map hung near the door portrays his first home, Sri Lanka.

Bombay Deli Pizza & Tandoori Restaurant

(This venue is closed.) Behind door number one of this twin-track business on the outskirts of the Garment District, a steam table proffered quite serviceable chicken tikka masala.

Harrie's

Diner, not a diner. Though I've never set foot inside Harrie's and can't vouch for the current menu, its swaying lantern brought to mind the yearlong transformation of the Mill, near Columbia University, from luncheonette to Korean restaurant. The Mill's scrambled-egg breakfast special is a thing of the past, but the egg cream and lime rickey are still in play.

Harrie's
1407 Broadway (38th-39th Sts.)
212-221-3666

Best Bagel & Coffee

Between the translucent inner wrap and the sandwich itself — that's one of the few places I'm happy to see seepage.

Fuji Bakery & Cafe

The sloppy brown steam table looks like a miss; I can't speak for anything that might emerge, to order, from the kitchen.

Brucha Caterer

(Brucha is still a going concern, but lately, the truck hasn't been seen 'round these parts.) They come from B&H.

West African Grocery

(This venue is closed.) Ghanaian entrée simmering on the stovetop? No time to ferment and steam your own corn "sourdough"?

Soul Fixins'

It's an even better deal if you've just dropped some bucks at B&H.

Go! Go! Curry!

Even the "single" sized serving of this Japanese joint's katsu curry ($7.50) provided a sliced-up slab of panko-crusted pork cutlet atop a nearly equal expanse of white rice. Both found comfort in a pool of heavy, black-peppery sauce that made the merest nod toward sweetness. White shreds of cabbage offered crunchy contrast; so did a bright red heap of fukujinzuke ($1), a traditional accompaniment of soy-sauce-pickled radish.

Go! Go! Curry!
273 West 38th Street (near Eighth Ave.)
212-730-5555
www.GoGoCurryUSA.com