Like the other half-dozen-or-so flavors on hand, this matcha mochi donut is designed to be shared. Owing to the high ratio of glaze to donut proper, it's very, very sweet — even the Rice Krispies help to dial it down.
The Dough Club
136-17 39th Ave. (Main-138th St., inside the Food Hall at Queens Crossing, at Taiyaki), Flushing, Queens
(One of several locations)
917-826-7821
www.TheDoughClub.com
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This 波士頓派 (Bōshìdùn pài) omits the chocolate frosting integral to a classic Boston cream pie, but the sponge cake and cream filling are spot-on. Yeh's vanilla, green tea, and strawberry sponge-cake flavors (gentle flavors, to be sure) unite in the bakery's rainbow cake. To ascertain the flavor of the peachy-colored band that surrounds them, however, a return visit will be required.
Yeh's Bakery
57-25 Main St. (Booth Memorial-58th Aves.), Flushing, Queens
718-939-1688
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Dark meat, rich and chewy: duck gizzard with celery.
Huang Jin Jiao
133-35 Roosevelt Ave. (Prince St.-College Point Blvd., inside the New York Food Court stall 22; shown)
929-362-2551
Also, as Golden Corner Noodles, at 4215 College Point Blvd. (Sanford-Maple Aves.)
718-886-0123
www.HuangJinJiaoFood.com
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Unlike a sandwich, a sliced jianbing rarely offers neatly trimmed photo-friendly surfaces. This spicy garlic crayfish jianbing was messier than most; credit the ample filling. On a return visit I'll pay proper attention to the roasted cold noodles.
Followsoshi
13524 40th Rd. (Main-Prince Sts., inside the Corner 28 mini-mall), Flushing, Queens
347-654-6466
www.Instagram.com/Followsoshi
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Yes, I want fries with that: a rice-flour-battered, potato-embedded Korean hotdog.
Chungchun Rice Hotdog
15616 Northern Blvd. (at 156th St., in a shopping center), Murray Hill, Queens
www.ChungchunRiceDog.ca
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The server mentioned twice, with a question in her eyes, that these hot and sour green beans with minced pork were "spicy," and twice I reassured her that this was fine. The sourness, in fact, was much more pronounced; a one-to-one ratio of main dish to white rice was about right. Note that the wall menu (shown below) offers the translation "hot & sour chicken giblets rice"; the characters 酸豆角肉末盖饭 more readily identify this classic dish.
Hunan Suofen (branded, on the premises, only as 湖南嗦粉)
13621 Roosevelt Ave. (Main-Union Sts., inside the Landmark Quest Mall, "the same place as Joe's Steam Rice Roll"), Flushing, Queens
929-391-4633
www.Instagram.com/HunanSuofen
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When she defected from North Korea some 20 years ago, Ma Youngae "wasn't a very good cook," she acknowledges. In the years since, Ms. Ma has perfected at least one dish, which she sells to fund her mission to rescue North Korean defectors. However served — stir-fried, on a recent afternoon, at a street cart, or without adornment, as shown below at an autumn festival — her soondae, blood sausage, is superb.
Ma Youngae Pyongyang Soondae
Cart on the north side of Northern Blvd. between 153rd and 154th Sts. (and flying the flag of South Korea), Murray Hill, Queens
718-400-8400
Monday through Saturday, 11-8, barring extremely bad weather
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Burger under wraps? A black pepper beef bing, from a bill of fare whose fillings also include cabbage with bean curd, spicy squid, five varieties featuring pork, and "Orleans chicken." Small type on the menu identifies the proprietors with the eastern Chinese province of Shandong.
Corrections: Stefanos Chen, who has since written much more about this small business for The New York Times, clarifies that one of the two proprietors hails from Qingdao, in Shandong, the other, from the northeastern province of Liaoning. Chen also corrects what I'd given as a tentative translation — Yuyin Shaobing — of the business name.
Yukun Shaobing
13621 Roosevelt Ave. (Main-Union Sts., inside the Landmark Quest Mall), Flushing, Queens
929-300-9118
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Like all indoor dining rooms in the city, Flushing's New York Food Court is closed to customers except for ordering, picking up, and washing up. It did offer well-sheltered tables in the parking lot; my cuttlefish thick soup provided the only warmth.
8090 Taiwan Cuisine
133-35 Roosevelt Ave. (Prince St.-College Point Blvd., inside the New York Food Court, stall 24), Flushing, Queens
646-683-1763
www.Instagram.com/explore/locations/1239641742722591/8090TaiwaneseCuisineNY
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Antidote for noodle-soup indecision: getting all the toppings. Shown in the photos that follow: a fish ball, in biteaway view; the fighting fish of all dumplings; a wonton lit by a low afternoon sun; and the noodles themselves. The pork bone broth is wonderful, too.
Maxi's Noodle
13511 38th Ave. (Main-Prince Sts.), Flushing, Queens
917-908-0808
www.MaxisNoodle.com
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Thank you!
