Eating In Translation

Maxi's Noodle: Just Like Mom Would've Made

"We're always glad for a second bite at a wonton. At Maxi's Noodle, in Flushing, this Hong Kong delicacy is notably larger than its Chinese forebears. The dumplings and fish balls at Maxi's are hefty, too, each large enough to require two delicious bites, if not three. The size wouldn't matter, however, if the wontons weren’t wonderful — the pale pink of fresh shrimp, combined with a little pork, gleams from within their translucent wrappers.

"The restaurant’s namesake, Maxi Lau … keeps a framed photo of her mom at the restaurant … and has her portrait tattooed on one arm. Maxi's mom didn't have time to open a place of her own, but now, in spirit, whenever Maxi is at her restaurant, her mom is right by her side." Read more on Culinary Backstreets.

Beyond the Courts: CB's U.S. Open Eating Guide 2022

"Each year in late summer, some of the best athletes on the planet converge on Flushing Meadows Corona Park to compete in the United States Open Tennis Championships. ... The tournament site does provide hungry fans with several cafés and casual bar-restaurants as well as a pair of 'food villages.' But when in Queens — where some of the best food in the city is so close at hand — why would we confine ourselves to the boundaries of the tennis center?" Read more on Culinary Backstreets.

33 Bah Kut Teh

(This venue is closed.) During my first meal at this new Malaysian food-court stall, I didn't try the namesake herbal pork soup. The owner tells me he comes from Penang (the mainland, not the island), and I couldn't pass up his fully loaded asam laksa. I'm not sure if the plentiful fish was mackerel or some sort of sardine, but it's hard to mistake thin-sliced torch ginger.

33 Bah Kut Teh
13335 Roosevelt Ave. (Prince St.-College Point Blvd., inside the New York Food Court, stall 19), Flushing, Queens
929-204-4651
www.33BahKutTeh.com

A Snacker’s Guide to Flushing

Flushing is home to countless restaurants — I couldn't begin to tell you how many I've visited — but for a resident who's running errands, often there's time for no more than a light bite or two. Although I don't live in Flushing myself, I've discovered that snacks are a great way to get a taste of the neighborhood while on the go. See a few of my many favorites on Culinary Backstreets — and tell me some favorites of your own!

Minnan Xiaochi

An oyster omelette, Xiamen style, thinner and crisper than the typical Taiwanese version.

Minnan Xiaochi
133-35 Roosevelt Ave. (Prince St.-College Point Blvd., inside the New York Food Court, stall 13), Flushing, Queens
917-908-0919

Ugly Rice Donuts & Corn Dogs

Korean "ugnuts" are finger-lickin' good, especially if you eat 'em while they're hot. Mine was the injeolmi, coated with sweetened soy bean powder; another (not shown; comped) was a very good, but ugly, sugar donut.

Ugly Rice Donuts & Corn Dogs
13684 Roosevelt Ave. (Main-Union Sts.), Flushing, Queens
929-510-0123
www.UglyDonutsNCornDog.com

The Dough Club

Like the other half-dozen-or-so flavors on hand, this matcha mochi donut is designed to be shared. Owing to the high ratio of glaze to donut proper, it's very, very sweet — even the Rice Krispies help to dial it down.

The Dough Club
136-17 39th Ave. (Main-138th Sts., inside the Food Hall at Queens Crossing, at Taiyaki), Flushing, Queens
(One of several locations)
917-826-7821
www.TheDoughClub.com

Yeh's Bakery

This 波士頓派 (Bōshìdùn pài) omits the chocolate frosting integral to a classic Boston cream pie, but the sponge cake and cream filling are spot-on. Yeh's vanilla, green tea, and strawberry sponge-cake flavors (gentle flavors, to be sure) unite in the bakery's rainbow cake. To ascertain the flavor of the peachy-colored band that surrounds them, however, a return visit will be required.

Yeh's Bakery
57-25 Main St. (Booth Memorial-58th Aves.), Flushing, Queens
718-939-1688

Huang Jin Jiao

Dark meat, rich and chewy: duck gizzard with celery.

Huang Jin Jiao
133-35 Roosevelt Ave. (Prince St.-College Point Blvd., inside the New York Food Court stall 22; shown)
929-362-2551
Also, as Golden Corner Noodles, at 4215 College Point Blvd. (Sanford-Maple Aves.)
718-886-0123
www.HuangJinJiaoFood.com

Followsoshi

(This venue is closed.) Unlike a sandwich, a sliced jianbing rarely offers neatly trimmed photo-friendly surfaces. This spicy garlic crayfish jianbing was messier than most; credit the ample filling. On a return visit I'll pay proper attention to the roasted cold noodles.

Followsoshi
13524 40th Rd. (Main-Prince Sts., inside the Corner 28 mini-mall), Flushing, Queens
347-654-6466
www.Instagram.com/Followsoshi