Eating In Translation

Lanzhou Noodle (aka Lanzhou Ramen)

The first and most famous location of this mini-chain is on the lower level of the nearby Golden Mall, opposite Tianjin Dumpling House. If a long-rumored mall-wide renovation of the Golden Mall ever does disrupt business, it's good to have backup. Shown: stir-fried noodles with cumin lamb.

Lanzhou Noodle (aka Lanzhou Ramen)
Super HK food court, stall 25
3711 Main St. (37th-38th Aves., beneath Super HK supermarket), Flushing, Queens
917-688-2219
Golden Mall location: 41-28 Main St. (at 41st Rd., lower level)
917-660-9588
New York Food Court location: 133-35 Roosevelt Ave. (Prince St.-College Point Blvd., stall 22)
917-607-9188

Mom's Kitchen

After an hour-plus of grazing, a final food-court nibble: red-bean-paste-filled sesame balls, two for a buck-fifty.

Mom's Kitchen
Super HK food court, stall 18
3711 Main St. (37th-38th Aves., beneath the Super HK supermarket), Flushing, Queens

Shaanxi Tasty Food

It's not just one long bespattered noodle, but I did lift my first nearly a foot before I cleared the lip of the bowl. At this new food court some two dozen stalls serve food from Jiangnan, Shaxian, Wenzhou, Lanzhou, Shanghai, Sichuan, and Taiwan as well as Shaanxi; these ribbonlike, chewy "oil spill" noodles were an early standout.

H/T @garsleat, who supplied word of the food court's long-awaited opening

Shaanxi Tasty Food
Super HK food court, stall 27
3711 Main St. (37th-38th Aves., beneath the Super HK supermarket), Flushing, Queens

Szechuan House

Lessons from a Sichuan lunch: Cumin, beguiling as a complement to lamb with chile pepper, was even more enticing when liberally applied to crisp-skinned, tender cubes of fried tofu. We scarfed up the leavings with torn shreds of lettuce.

Szechuan House
133-47 Roosevelt Ave. (College Point Blvd.-Prince St.), Flushing, Queens
718-762-2664

Yu Garden Dumpling House

Oft-told tale: Once upon a time, the shaggy "manes" of these oversized, Shanghai-style pork meatballs suggested the name "lion's head." Also shown (from my photo archives): a stylized fellow lion and his feline guardian.

Yu Garden Dumpling House
46-20 Kissena Blvd. (Juniper-Kalmia Aves.), Flushing, Queens
718-886-2676

One Harvest (aka Yi Feng Yuan)

A vegetable-forward Shanghai lunch, headlined by an autumn medley of celery, pumpkin, and lily bulb, also featured bean curd with finely chopped malan tou (Indian aster); garlic cucumber; and seaweed. The last, to be sure, had been insinuated into the batter that ultimately enveloped deep-fried yellow croaker.

For more photos (including a fat leg of braised pork), see the EIT page on Facebook.

One Harvest (aka Yi Feng Yuan)
37-14 Main St. (37th-38th Aves.), Flushing, Queens
929-200-7078
www.YiFengYuanFlushingNY.com

Canton Gourmet

Stack those adjectives any way you like: famous garlic aromatic crispy chicken, shown as a double order, or one whole bird.

Hao Xiang Ju

De minimis chopped chiles aside, "red in snow" was green in the photo affixed to the restaurant window and little different when the dish, composed chiefly of chopped mustard greens, landed at our table. We wondered, why the name? One suggestion, which I dug out much later, is that "red" is intended as a symbol of vigor. Many plants in the mustard family are hardy enough to continue growing during the winter — even in snow.

Also shown, below, from this Hunanese lunch: crispy lamb ribs; steamed fish head with chopped chiles. For more photos, see the EIT page on Facebook.

Hao Xiang Ju
133-51 37th Ave. (Prince St.-College Point Blvd.), Flushing, Queens
718-353-8998

Szechuan Mountain House

Perhaps the rich coloration of the hóngshāo ròu inspired the menu's translation. "Braised pork with cherry" has no cherries — but grapes, it turns out, are a nice touch. For more photos, see the EIT page on Facebook.

Szechuan Mountain House
3916 Prince St. (Roosevelt-39th Aves., inside One Fulton Square, unit G03), Flushing, Queens
718-888-7893
Also at 23 St. Mark's Pl. (Second-Third Aves.), Manhattan
917-388-3866
www.SzechuanMountainHouse.com

Dumpling Galaxy

In a galaxy not so far, far away ... dumplings for dinner, dumplings for dessert, dumplings (and other good things) in between!

Dumpling Galaxy
42-35 Main St. (Franklin-Maple Aves., inside the Arcadia Mall), Flushing, Queens
718-461-0808
www.Facebook.com/Dumpling-Galaxy-591436280965409