Eating In Translation

Milu

It's probably not wise to go bounding off with an open container of pork and fennel wontons as liberally sauced as these. One false step, and splash they go. We enjoyed our wontons, as well as Yunnan brisket partnered with cucumber, and Mandarin duck bedded down on duck fat rice, at an outdoor table. You might, however, stroll in just for a cup of egg tart soft serve — there's a milk tea flavor, too — and stroll away without a worry.

Milu
333 Park Ave. South (24th-25th Sts.), Manhattan
212-377-6403
www.EatMilu.com
Closed Sunday

Veeray da Dhaba

No goat, no lamb, no chicken thigh, not a single piece of meat: biryani with green jackfruit. I sat right back and enjoyed my biryani inside the restaurant before dine-in service was prohibited, once again, in December, but I'll bet it would travel dependably.

H/T @Garsleat

Veeray da Dhaba
222 First Ave. (13th-14th Sts.), Manhattan
212-777-1420
www.VeeraydaDhaba.com

"Be loving to farmers ..."

... and "celebrate the summer harvest by serving up a slice of cherry kindness pie with a scoop of patience ice cream."

Hand-drawn signboards
Union Square Greenmarket, Manhattan
www.GrowNYC.org /greenmarket /manhattan-union-square-f
Monday, Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday

Grill 21

Filipino breakfast combos often are combos in name as well. Many such dishes end in "silog," a portmanteau of the words sinangag (garlic fried rice) and itlog (egg). Add longanisa (pork sausage) and one can enjoy longsilog; with tocino (cured pork), tosilog; with bangus (marinated, fried milkfish), bangsilog.

Tinapasilog, new to me, also featured fried milkfish, which previously had been brined, air-dried, and smoked. This traditional method of preservation can be applied to other fish, too — even, at a stretch, Nova Scotia-sourced salmon. But what would we call the breakfast combo: tinapasilog or novasilog?

Grill 21
346 East 21st St. (First-Second Aves.), Manhattan
212-473-5950
www.Facebook.com/TheGrill21

St. John the Baptist Greek Food Festival

Accompaniment to a Greek quintet: ravani, semolina cake perfumed with orange-blossom water.

St. John the Baptist Greek Food Festival
Outside St. John the Baptist Greek Orthodox Church of Gramercy, 143 East 17th St. (Third Ave.-Irving Pl.), Manhattan
www.Facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10220858833203811
(The 2019 festival was held on October 5)

Patisserie Fouet

French meets Japanese: cauliflower soup with kombu dashi.

Patisserie Fouet
15 East 13th St. (Fifth Ave.-University Pl.), Manhattan
212-620-0622
www.Facebook.com/FouetNYC

Sugaree's Bakery

Counterpoint to salty 'cue: caramel cake. Unlike the wrapped, shelf-stable candies that sometimes attain the hardness of table-top hockey pucks, the caramel frosting was just as meltingly luscious as it looks. Alas, at dessert-time, a decision had to be made, and in hindsight the red velvet looked ever more tempting once out of reach. The same had been true for the strawberry cake — a regret since remedied (bottom photos).

Sugaree's Bakery
110 West Bankhead St., New Albany, Mississippi
662-534-0031
www.Sugarees.com
At the Big Apple Barbecue Block Party
In and around Madison Square Park, Manhattan
www.BigAppleBBQ.org
(The 2018 event takes place on June 9-10)

Pete's Tavern

Burger (at dinner, $15.75). Tavern beverages not shown.

Pete's Tavern
129 East 18th St. (at Irving Pl.), Manhattan
212-473-7676
www.PetesTavern.com

Lamazou

(This venue is closed.)The crust of ciabatta, and the crunch of cornichons within my Caprice de Lamazou ($12), contrasted splendidly with smoked salmon; lemon sauce, onion, and capers added their spritely touches, too. At this well-provisioned shop that proffers "cheeses and delicacies from around the world" (but particularly from around the Mediterranean), the possible sandwich permutations can seem overwhelming. Even after I settled on one of a score of named combos, I might have chosen a baguette rather than ciabatta or swapped in any number of dressings, garnishes, and other items. When in doubt, let your counterman guide the way.

Below, from an earlier visit: the Lamoretti (currently $10.75), which sported roast beef, cheddar, cornichons, and, at my request, horseradish, on ciabatta.

Lamazou
370 Third Ave. (26th-27th Sts.), Manhattan
212-532-2009
www.LamazouCheese.com
Closed Sunday

Joe Junior Restaurant

Burger, medium rare ($4.50): deconstructed, as brought to the table; assembled, and already oozing in anticipation; disappeared, except for juices and ketchup.

Joe Junior Restaurant
167 Third Ave. (at 16th St.), Manhattan
212-473-5150