Too-slow service, but a not-bad view of the Pearl River, for big, chewy roast oysters (six for Y30) and durian "pancakes" (Y25) stuffed with cream.
Tonight's riverscape aside, Guangzhou has been very dreary; Hong Kong tomorrow will be none too soon.
The Rose Garden Club
Shamian Island, Guangzhou
A leek bao (Y0.5) was too bready.
Dumpling and Bun Vendor
Changshou Xilu at Wenchang Lu, Guangzhou
A plain doughnut (Y1.3): airy, oily, nice.
Corner Snack Storefront
Huagui Lu at Longjin Xilu, Guangzhou
The Fifth Season guava juice drink (330 ml.; about Y2) was OK, but what's with the camo packaging?
Kwik Market
Longjin Xilu, Guangzhou
(one of many locations)
On closer inspection, two black-and-white treats (Y1) — one black with a white spot, one white with a black spot — were poured from the same glutinous rice mould. Pretty much the same minimal flavor, too. Just think glutinous.
Sweets Shop
25 Baohua Zhengzhongyue, off Baohua Lu, Guangzhou
The fans and fluorescent lights under the canopy of this alleyway restaurant were strung with a cobweb of wiring; any New York building inspector worth his (or her) salt would reach for a fresh summons book. Closer to ground level, the situation was much simpler. Almost every table was working on a plateful like the one I eventually ordered (Y2, about 25 cents at the time). These "noodles" were actually thin sheets that had been rolled into rods, cut into bite-sized pieces, then dressed with soy sauce and sesame seeds — simple, satisfying fare even a civil servant couldn't fault.
Outdoor noodle eatery
Shiwufu 3 Xiang, off Baohua Lu, Guangzhou
Chicken noodle soup with mushrooms and baby shrimp (Y3). Fine.
Cooked-Food Storefront
40 Baohua Lu, Guangzhou
Trio of late-night baked snacks (Y4.5 total): a chicken-and-egg bun, an egg yolk pastry, and this exceptionally satisfying peanut butter wedge.
Bakery
465 Huanshi Donglu, Guangzhou
Kiwi slushy (Y4).
Slushy and Snack Corner Store
Yushan Lu at Beijing Lu, Guangzhou
Quench (250 ml.; Y2). Just barely.
Fengxing Milk
Guangta Lu, Guangzhou
Thank you!
