Eating In Translation

Son D'licias

Untie the topknot of this tamal Tolimense, and you'll find it overstuffed with chicken, beef, pork, egg, potato, peas, carrot, and rice. Unphotogenic but filling.

Son D'licias, a Colombian food truck, also serves many snack-sized items, among them a mashed-yuca fritter filled with rice and beef. While the menu labels it a pastel de yuca, Esneider Arevalo, who leads food tours in Queens for Culinary Backstreets, calls it a carimañola. I'd always thought that was a Panamanian name — but Colombia and Panama are neighbors, no?

Son D'licias
Truck parked on 82nd St. near the northwest corner with Roosevelt Ave., Jackson Heights, Queens
929-366-3738
www.Instagram.com/SonDelicias82St

Sweet Lucca

On a relatively cool evening, this coquito-flavored rice pudding was warmed at my request. Is it just as aromatic on a hot summer day, when served cold? More research required.

Sweet Lucca
83-06 37th Ave. (83rd-84th Sts.), Jackson Heights, Queens
347-335-6811
www.Facebook.com/SweetLucca1

Chalupas Poblanas El Tlecuile: The Real Thing Drops in Queens

"Late on a weekend afternoon, the clamor that greets us is intense, even for Queens. As we descend from the elevated 7 train to Junction Blvd., on the border between the neighborhoods of Jackson Heights and Corona, dozens of street vendors make themselves known by the display of their wares and by their come-ons, spoken mostly in Spanish, to passersby.

"During a half-block walk north, on the eastern, sunnier, side of the boulevard, we find sidewalk vendors selling perfume and jewelry, wallets and mobile phone cases, masks arrayed like a collection of pinned butterflies and a yapping, battery-powered Dalmatian puppy. There’s plenty to snack on, too: meat-laden skewers, roasted nuts, tamales, ices on a stick and by the scoop.

"We also notice, as we pass the storefronts, a self-identified 'Mexican-inspired fast-food chain.' It doesn’t even slow us down, not with the promise of outdoor cooking just ahead, at Chalupas Poblanas El Tlecuile." Read more on Culinary Backstreets.

969 NYC Coffee

Meat-free Friday: fried oyster onigirazu, a Japanese rice ball transformed into a seaweed-and-rice-wrapped sandwich. Arrive before noon and you might find onigirazu with scallop or fish, as well as chicken or pork katsu.

969 NYC Coffee
3761 80th St. (Roosevelt-37th Aves.), Jackson Heights, Queens
646-203-7304
www.969NYCCoffee.com
Closed Thursday

Chalupas Poblanas El Tlecuile

"Crispy" is a word that affixes itself to many descriptions of chalupas, especially commercial enterprises that furnish them with lettuce, tomato, and string cheese. The chalupas in this batch, shallow-fried in lard and topped with onion and shredded beef, were supple; the texture reminded me of pancakes. A better label for my half-order, sauced red and green in equal measure, would be "short stack."

Also shown: a cup of café de olla, ladled from the traditional earthenware pot (on the house). The pot and the cooktop each rest on a tlecuile, the Nahuatl word for the Spanish fogón — generally, a wood-fired hearth or stove of some sort. These tlecuiles are charcoal-fueled and, when need be, hand-fanned.

H/T Matt Shapiro

Chalupas Poblanas El Tlecuile
By the roadside at 3747 Junction Blvd. (Roosevelt-37th Aves.), Corona, Queens
718-424-3662
www.Facebook.com/Chalupas-Poblanas-El-Tlecuile-114216710342440
Friday through Sunday, 6:00-11:00, except during heavy wind or rain

Mama's Restaurant

Bangladeshi bhuna khichuri, beef with yellow lentils and rice, accompanied by the essential plate of crisp palate cleansers.

Mama's Restaurant
37-34 73rd St. (37th Ave.-Broadway), Jackson Heights, Queens
347-448-6002

TastYork

An after-lunch, after-nosh perro caliente Venezolano — a loaded Venezuelan hot dog — compliments of Jesús. Other menu items are so massive I'd need to make TastYork my first stop.

TastYork ("Tasty York")
8516 Roosevelt Ave. (Forley-Elbertson Sts.), Jackson Heights, Queens
929-312-7107
www.Instagram.com/TastYork

Prince Kabab & Chinese Restaurant

(This venue is closed.) At our sheltered table outside this Bangladeshi-Chinese restaurant, bitter melon was the most glamorous dish; a lamb shank, the most uncompromising; goat biryani and spinach, the most indifferently plated. The potatoes were very good; indeed, they were my favorite.

Prince Kabab & Chinese Restaurant
3756 74th St. (37th Rd.-37th Ave.), Jackson Heights, Queens
718-406-9206
www.Facebook.com/pages/Prince%20Kabab%20&%20Chinese%20Restaurant/795409224161599

Puebla Sea Food

In Mexico, "atole" is a more common spelling for a hot sweetened drink with a cornmeal base, such as atole de chocolate, better known as champurrado. This restaurant pays homage to Mesoamerican roots with the Nahuatl spelling "atolli" — and to its home away from home with "I [heart] the Big Apple" to-go cups.

Puebla Sea Food
9527 Roosevelt Ave. (95th-Warren Sts.), Jackson Heights, Queens
718-672-3556
www.Facebook.com /Puebla-Sea-Food-134379806632340

Empanadas Mix

A Venezuelan hot dog — with onion, cabbage, carrot, corn, potato, pecorino, pink sauce, ketchup, and mayo — at a sidewalk table. Actual hot dog not shown.

Empanadas Mix
8103 Northern Blvd. (81st-82nd Sts.), Jackson Heights, Queens
347-935-3777
www.Instagram.com/EmpanadasMixNY