(This venue is closed.) Pão de ló (sponge cake), a bola de Berlim, and — of all the items at the counter of this Portuguese bakery, market, and cafe, what might be the sweetest — a spaghetti squash tart.
Eira
24 Mercer St. (Grove St.-Marin Blvd.), Jersey City
www.EiraCafe.com
Closed Monday
Crispy fish tacos, a special — but, in summer, a recurring special, I'll bet.
Carlito's Barbecue Taqueria
Various locations; on this afternoon, at the Smorgasburg outpost in Jersey City
www.CarlitosTacos.com
Witchcraft, or marketing inevitability: lamb birria nacho fries.
H/T Robert Sietsema for the birria; I'll take credit (or blame) for smothering it in pico de gallo, queso fresco, sour cream, and fries. Serving suggestion (for which I wasn't fast enough on my feet to try myself): a side of consomé, as a pourover.
La Brujeria
590 Grand St. (at Fairmount Ave.), Jersey City
201-267-6760
www.La-Brujeria.com
Latest in a continuing series, abandoned on a sidewalk in Jersey City
Focaccia Barese. 'Nuff said.
Bread and Salt
435 Palisade Ave. (at Griffith St.), Jersey City
201-500-7338
https://BreadAndSalt.square.site
In and around NYC, familiar foods are often employed as metaphors to explain less familiar cuisines. At Griot Cafe in Jersey City, beignet lovers usually ask for powdered sugar on their fritters, says the Kenyan co-owner; folks who know mandazi generally take them as they come.
Griot Cafe
398 Central Ave. (at Thorne St.), Jersey City
201-420-9444
www.GriotCafe.com
I probably would have been pleased with what the menu calls "sundry tomatoes," too. The "Soprano": soppressata, prosciutto, mozzarella, and sun-dried tomatoes, dressed with extra-virgin olive oil.
H/T Peter Genovese
Andrea Salumeria
247 Central Ave. (Manhattan Ave.-Sherman Pl.), Jersey City
201-653-1666
www.AndreaSalumeria.com
Closed Sunday
This hard roll, top-loaded with ham, cheese, bacon, and bell pepper, was carried off by the counterwoman to be rewarmed in the kitchen. When she returned, a couple who had already filled their shopping basket caught the aroma; conveniently, two top-loaded rolls were still on display.
Jola Polish Deli
110 Hutton St. (Central-Summit Aves.), Jersey City
201-721-6670
www.Facebook.com/Jola-Polish-Deli-803050859886559
Closed Sunday and Monday
The ingredients of suman sa ibos are simple: principally glutinous rice and coconut milk, best eaten with fresh mango or a sprinkle of sugar. But the palm-leaf wrap is a puzzle to unravel: Where is the image of tiny scissors or the legend that tells you to "tear here"?
Also shown at this Filipino market: the point-of-purchase display; a bunch of bibingka; a slice of sapin sapin, a trilevel pie of glutinous rice dressed with toasted coconut; and calamondin (calamansi) plants outside the shop. My photo of the potted plants was taken on a late summer day; I'd expect that they've been brought inside.
Casa Victoria
691 Newark Ave. (Summit Ave.-John F. Kennedy Blvd.), Jersey City
201-216-1055
www.CasaVictoriaNJ.com
Thank you!
