Eating In Translation

Chittagong Association of North America Mela

In the Bangladesh seaport of Chittagong and throughout South Asia, achars are prepared by pickling a variety of fruits and vegetables in the presence of salt, spices, and some sort of edible oil. Some years ago, at a different event in this same Brooklyn neighborhood, one stall offered pickled mango (a common candidate), olive, and jambolan. Produce from temperate climates is suitable, too; this apple-cherry achar might have thrived even under more-aggressive seasoning.

Also shown, from the same vendor, in order of increasing sweetness: falooda, cake, and fried pastry. Alas, most of the stalls at this mela, and at many similar events, do business only on rare festival days.

Chittagong Association of North America Mela
McDonald Ave. between Church Ave. and Ave. C, Kensington, Brooklyn
www.BangladeshCircle.com/event/pothomela-2016-chittagong-association-north-america
(The 2016 mela was held on July 10)

Guacamaya Cafe

(This venue is closed. Its successor, Guacamaya Taqueria, serves Mexican and not Venezuelan food.) Perico arepa (peh-Ree-co a-Ray-pah, $6), Venezuelan scrambled eggs overfilling a griddled white-corn patty. Though sometimes also prepared with meat, perico is distinguished by the bright combo of egg, tomato, and avocado that evoke the coloration of its namesake — a parakeet.

Guacamaya Cafe
1017 Cortelyou Rd. (Coney Island Ave.-Stratford Rd.), Ditmas Park, Brooklyn
347-715-6471

Samir Restaurant

(This venue is closed.) Shortly after our party had been seated but while we were still dithering over the bill of fare, a couple of fellows sauntered into Samir and took a two-top along the wall. They spoke briefly with the waiter; I don't recall that menus came into play. Soon afterward they were served a steaming round of non, the flat-in-the-middle, fluffy-at-the-brim Uzbek bread, which they applied to a pale brownish stew on a broad plate set between them. This was khalisa — or, as the waiter explained it to us using a more familiar name, haleem.

Unlike the Bukharan Uzbek restaurants of Rego Park, Samir is halal, not kosher, but the menu is much the same. Expect much lamb, though the meatless dishes look great, too; my favorite was the potato-and-mushroom combo shown here. And whether in a large group or at a table for two, expect to share. For more photos, see the EIT page on Facebook.

Samir Restaurant
696 Coney Island Ave. (Cortelyou Rd.-Ave. C), Kensington, Brooklyn
347-318-3010
www.Facebook.com/Samir-Restaurant-1047986011889916

Greenfield Pharmacy

When it answered to the British-styled name Greenfield Chemist, you might have conceivably (if not privately) washed down your pills with a soda at the lunch counter. The old signage, on the wall that overlooks the Cortelyou Rd. station for the Q train, hasn't faded all that much over the years; the second, closeup, photo was taken in much brighter sunlight. Mr. Greenfield, I was told by a successor owner, retired in 1978, but it's unclear how soon afterward that the luncheonette was 86'ed.

Greenfield Pharmacy
Surviving signage for a luncheonette, 1526 Cortelyou Rd. (at East 16th St.), Ditmas Park, Brooklyn
866-299-6373
www.GreenfieldPharmacy.com

Lahori Chilli

(This post is based on a visit to the restaurant's former location, a few blocks up the avenue.) From one of many Pakistani storefronts that bills itself "restaurant & sweet," the latter: what the counterman knew only as custard ($3). Though the chunks of fruit were mango, the predominant flavor was orange, evidently from some sort of powdery blend that colored the custard and, more strikingly, the slices of bread. In the display case they were laid across the top of the custard, but as served they were broken and swirled into it; stiff though not crisp, they offered some small contrast of texture. It's a dessert customarily made only in home kitchens, the counterman added. I'd already had my salty for the afternoon; to follow it, this was a wonderful sweet.

Lahori Chilli
1026 Coney Island Ave. (Parkville-Foster Aves.), Kensington, Brooklyn
718-859-1400
www.Facebook.com/Lahori-Chilli-396614600537344

Lo Duca Pizza

The heavier the fog and the colder the drizzle, the thicker I like my slice. This deep-dish pie smothered in shrimp, calamari, and creamy pesto sauce ($4) was served with knife and fork; I managed with just my two hands, plus a pile of napkins.

Lo Duca Pizza
14 Newkirk Plaza (Newkirk-Foster Aves.), Ditmas Park, Brooklyn
718-859-1501

Gourmet Sweets

"Pakistani pizza," said the fellow in charge, describing this chewy, very dense flatbread. At the outside serving table, another server called it by a more formal name, but above the clamor of the Pakistan Independence Day Mela, I didn't catch it. Fortunately, an EIT reader (thanks, @lobothecat!) quickly recognized it as katlama.

Also known as kutlama and qatlama, the oversized flatbread is decked out with a pasty masala that typically includes red chilies, coriander, and cumin, then deep-fried. This rendition (half, $5) also featured black peppercorns that became increasingly evident with every mouthful. Sad to say, at Gourmet Sweets katlama was prepared only for the mela; it's not on the everyday menu.

Previously: a moist trio of halwas, in orange, green, and tan (carrot, squash, and apple, at the time, $2.50 total).

Gourmet Sweets
1107 Coney Island Ave. (Glenwood Rd.-Ave. H), Ditmas Park, Brooklyn
718-421-4100

Our Lady of Refuge Barbecue and Street Fair

The "street fair" was simply a sidewalk flea market. "Barbecue," as at many Memorial Day affairs, meant grilled hamburgers, hot dogs, and chicken, and dollar slices of watermelon. But the church's diverse congregation was also represented in the partially canopied parking lot by Puerto Rican pasteles and pernil, Mexican tacos and tamales, and a choice of several Haitian plate meals. This rendition of the thick vegetable stew called legim (leh-Gem, $5) also featured crab.

For dessert: pineapple upside-down cake ($2). Even the festival's vigorous Gaga-Gangnam soundtrack couldn't flip it rightside-up.

Our Lady of Refuge Barbecue and Street Fair
Our Lady of Refuge Roman Catholic Church, 2020 Foster Ave. (at Ocean Ave.), Ditmas Park, Brooklyn
Memorial Day

Janaan Tikka House

(This venue is closed.) The counterman was Pakistani, the server, Bangladeshi, the salad, a curiosity.

CMBBA Mela

Little food at the fair was prepared on the spot.