Eating In Translation

Rib Shack

These come from higher on the hog — or at least higher on the GI tract — than chitterlings. Compared with those sometimes rubbery pieces of pork intestine, hog maws are firmer. Both varieties of offal must be well washed, but hog maws, cut from the muscular wall of the stomach after the lining has been removed, are less likely to retain unpleasant alimentary aromas. Mine had a pleasant vinegar flavor that I accented with just a splash of hot sauce.

Suggested chaser: peach or apple cobbler. Also consider watermelon, in season, from H. Huston & Sons Produce Plus, next door.

Rib Shack (shown in 2010, and little changed)
157-06 Linden Blvd. (157th-158th Sts.), Jamaica, Queens
718-659-7000
www.Facebook.com/pages/Rib%20Shack/113121468750994

Patmar Bake Shop

This West Indian grater cake (purchased at Patmar, but with a label, not shown, from Steph's in Canarsie, Brooklyn) is essentially a sugar-and-coconut drop cookie. Despite the bullseye (just food coloring), it's much easier to nibble the edges first.

Patmar Bake Shop
20507 Linden Blvd. (205th St.-Francis Lewis Blvd.), St. Albans, Queens
718-341-0900
www.Facebook.com/pages/Patmar%20Bake%20Shop%20Inc/116216551739317

Fallen lollypop

Latest in a continuing series, abandoned on a sidewalk in Jersey City

Koliba Restaurant

Treska might have been the tipping point. Dining alone, after polishing off an appetizer of the vinegary fish-and-mayo salad, I turned to a plate of halušky (ha-Loosh-key), potato spaetzle with salty sheep's cheese and, implicitly, bacon. It would have been wiser to finish only as much halušky as pictured below rather than clearing the plate of the entire, weighty, portion. A takeout container for leftovers also respects the chef and helps leave room for dessert.

Also shown at this Czechoslovak restaurant, from a special menu enjoyed with friends in a past year: venison meatloaf and goose pate; venison loin with garlic.

Koliba Restaurant
3111 23rd Ave. (31st-32nd Sts.), Astoria, Queens
718-626-0430
www.KolibaRestaurant.com
Closed Monday

Bread and Salt

Focaccia Barese. 'Nuff said.

Bread and Salt
435 Palisade Ave. (at Griffith St.), Jersey City
201-500-7338
https://BreadAndSalt.square.site

Griot Cafe

In and around NYC, familiar foods are often employed as metaphors to explain less familiar cuisines. At Griot Cafe in Jersey City, beignet lovers usually ask for powdered sugar on their fritters, says the Kenyan co-owner; folks who know mandazi generally take them as they come.

Griot Cafe
398 Central Ave. (at Thorne St.), Jersey City
201-420-9444
www.GriotCafe.com

Andrea Salumeria

I probably would have been pleased with what the menu calls "sundry tomatoes," too. The "Soprano": soppressata, prosciutto, mozzarella, and sun-dried tomatoes, dressed with extra-virgin olive oil.

H/T Peter Genovese

Andrea Salumeria
247 Central Ave. (Manhattan Ave.-Sherman Pl.), Jersey City
201-653-1666
www.AndreaSalumeria.com
Closed Sunday

The Nelms Egg Depot

Hand-painted signage, 1144 Bronx River Ave. (Westchester-Watson Aves.), Soundview, Bronx
718-328-7847
Wholesale only; closed Saturday and Sunday

Jola Polish Deli

This hard roll, top-loaded with ham, cheese, bacon, and bell pepper, was carried off by the counterwoman to be rewarmed in the kitchen. When she returned, a couple who had already filled their shopping basket caught the aroma; conveniently, two top-loaded rolls were still on display.

Jola Polish Deli
110 Hutton St. (Central-Summit Aves.), Jersey City
201-721-6670
www.Facebook.com/Jola-Polish-Deli-803050859886559
Closed Sunday and Monday

Kwik Meal

Plus ça change: the Kwik Meal cart as seen one evening, years back, and a vegetable lover's meal from a recent visit, several presidential administrations later.

Kwik Meal
Cart stationed on West 45th St. near the southwest corner with Sixth Ave., Manhattan
917-412-4694
www.Facebook.com/KwikMealNYC