It seemed a warm September in Shanghai for chestnuts, but the ladies working both sides of the Henan Zhonglu bridge knew their market. I picked away happily at my bagful (Y10, about $1.25 at the time) for nearly an hour. Also shown: a view from the bridge.
Roasted-chestnut cart
On the Henan Zhonglu bridge over Suzhou Creek, Shanghai
Had to restrain myself here. Each "cookie" (Y0.4 each, or about 10 cents) sports a pair of praline-like crisps sandwiching a soft center — could it be sweet potato? This sweet appears elsewhere in the city, but these were the freshest I found.
Bakery
Ningbo Lu near Shanxi Lu, Shanghai
Brown rice shumai (Y 1 each) were OK. Many more choices at this busy outlet would surely prove more rewarding, if only I had time to try them all.
Corner Dumpling Store
Shanxi Nanlu at Ningbo Lu, Shanghai
"Fried soup dumplings" with black sesame (Y1 each) had a nice flavor but were not quite as juicy as the Yang's version.
Dumpling and Noodle Stand
Shanxi Nanlu near Ningbo Lu, Shanghai
Reeb beer (355 ml.; Y3), from Shanghai. Nothing special. At least they might have worked harder on the name.
Kedi, Shanghai
Many locations
Must be a popular place. Tonight I passed on the kebabs and snagged a round bread (Y2), almost crisp in the middle, doughier around the edges.
Kebab and Baked Bread Corner Store
Huanghe Lu, north of the Old Town, Shanghai
Surely there's a more appropriate name for this sandwich, served on your choice of the bread called mantou (shown; Y3), a sesame-seed bun, or what looked like a pita. Except for the doughy texture of the mantou, however, the flavor would be right at home in the five boroughs.
Shwarma Storefront
82 Wujiang Lu, Shanghai
I have no idea what this is called. Once a single "unit" (about Y2) was detached from the griddled whole, I discovered that under the corn, golden raisins, peanuts, and candied fruit was a bready secret compartment filled with hot red bean paste. Even so, somehow less than the sum of its parts.
Griddled-Dessert Storefront
Wujiang Lu, Shanghai
Fried soup dumplings?
The dry, flaky coating encased a moist pork filling (Y1.80).
Talchang Bingwu
Weihai Lu, Shanghai
Thank you!
