Eating In Translation

Jackfruit vendor

I didn't try any of the small eateries set into the "backside" of Psar Chaa; they seemed humdrum against the lure of the vendors across the street. On the corner, one fellow was quietly disassembling massive jackfruits, slicing them in half and removing the fleshy yellow sheathes that each envelop a seed (or two). The flavor was similar to pineapple, but not nearly as acidic; not as juicy, either, and so easy to snack on while I wandered through town (bag; 2,000 riels, or about 50 cents at the time).

Jackfruit vendor
Siem Reap, Cambodia
(From a November 2006 visit)

Papaya salad cart

Why not in New York?

Amok

Though fish is the traditional foundation of the namesake national dish, amok can be prepared with just about anything you like.

Bas-reliefs at Bayon

Among the bas-reliefs on the outer gallery of Bayon, the famous temple at the center of Angkor Thom, are a series of carvings depicting a feast by the Khmers, celebrating their victory over the Champa kingdom in A.D. 1181.

Angkor Reach Restaurant

At the way station where my tuk-tuk driver dropped me between morning at Angkor Wat and afternoon at Angkor Thom, there was less to choose from than the spiral-bound menu would suggest; that's a very tame preparation of rice noodles with chicken and vegetables ($2). Nothing to see here, folks, nothing to see here.

Angkor Reach Restaurant
Near Siem Reap, Cambodia
(From a November 2006 visit)

Khmer Home Kitchen

This soupy version of amok ($2.50) set fish afloat in a mild green curry. Paired with a honey yogurt shake ($1).

Khmer Home Kitchen
"The Alley," Siem Reap, Cambodia
(From a November 2006 visit)

Angkor Market

I'm reasonably sure that Naga (630 ml.; $1.50) was fermented palm juice, even though the only other word I could read was "fresh." That wasn't what came to mind when I opened the bottle: The suggestion of tropical overripeness kicked up through my sinuses and settled on my tongue with a lingering, lubricating, nearly viscous mouthfeel. Nighty-night.

Angkor Market
Siem Reap, Cambodia
(From a November 2006 visit)

Produce vendors near Psar Chaa

Until I was properly introduced, in my notes I called these "sour strawberries."

Heng Cham Rouen Bakery

That middle layer was shredded coconut, on top of a bready platform. An OK pastry from an unexciting selection, but I always like to find out what everyone else is looking at.

Heng Cham Rouen Bakery
Siem Reap, Cambodia
(From a November 2006 visit)

Psar Chaa

After the short flight from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap, I needed a snack.