A "white" thieboudienne (Cheh-boo-Jen), stewed fish and vegetables over rice. The chef's previous home is Senegal, where "thieb" is the national dish, but the restaurant's ownership has its roots in a tiny neighboring country, telephone code 220: The Gambia. Except for a short coast on the Atlantic, The Gambia is entirely surrounded by Senegal, and, understandably, the "food is pretty much the same," I was told. It wouldn't be unfair to call this a Senegambian thieboudienne.
Most New York restaurants that offer thieboudienne serve just one of the two basic styles each day. 220 had prepared both, although the "red" style, with tomato, had already "sold out" by midafternoon. (Next time, I'll get an earlier start.) Also shown: closeups of stewed tamarind, an accompaniment that seems to be reserved for white thieboudienne, and the rof, parsley mashed with garlic, scallion, and chile pepper and stuffed into the fish. Today, red snapper.
220 African Restaurant
4120 White Plains Rd. (229th-230th Sts.), Wakefield, Bronx
917-966-3727
www.Facebook.com/220AfricanRestaurant