Drab, but only in looks: gaap kai buu, a shard of coconut husk filled with mud crab, shrimp paste, and coconut, the first course in a seafood-centered "Golden Mermaid" set menu. Also shown, in the photo at the bottom of this post: the modest entrance to this Thai restaurant. Again, looks might deceive.
Previously, beginning with the first photo that follows: The dark red dollop of nam prik narohk, literally "chili paste from hell," is one of a family of Thai condiments with various consistencies and temperaments. At Little Serow this particular nam prik was prepared from catfish, tamarind, and chilies; ultimately, it wasn't so hellish. Alongside is khaep muu, introduced by my server as housemade Thai "chicharrones."
In normal times, Little Serow (rhymes with "arrow") serves only a single set menu of Northern Thai dishes, updated weekly. Since no substitutions are made on the fly, any accommodations of non-Thai palates and sensibilities must be made up front. A nam prik might not be prepared at its most fiery; a traditional Thai snack of deep-fried pork skin is assigned a more familiar Latin American name. On my visit, fermented funk was entirely absent, though seemingly it reared its pungent head when the set menu was revised for a later week.
