Eating In Translation

Caracas Arepa Bar

By default a Venezuelan arepa is sliced and stuffed; this open-faced presentation honored visiting chefs representing Denmark, Finland, Norway, and Sweden. Alas, the "Nordic arepa" — which boasted smoked bluefish, pineapple sauerkraut, caper-dill crema, and microgreens, atop a patty whose dough was colored with squid ink — made port only briefly, then sailed on.

Caracas Arepa Bar
www.CaracasArepaBar.com
At the Munchies Festival
Hester Street Fair, Hester St. at Essex St., Manhattan
(The festival was held on September 16-17, 2017)

Meyers Bageri

(This venue is closed.) "Moist, dense, chewy" wrote Andrew Coe in praise of this corn sourdough (August special, $8). It marries bread, rye, and Öland flours — the last is a Nordic heritage wheat — to a sourdough starter, and it derives additional aroma and flavor from cornmeal and corn cob broth. It's amazing how fast a loaf can vanish when employed both as a frame for sandwiches and as a foil for marmalade. Myself, I've always liked to gnaw on the heels, and I don't necessarily save them for last.

Meyers Bageri
Inside the Great Northern Food Hall, Grand Central Terminal, 87 East 42nd St. (at Park Ave.), Manhattan
www.GreatNorthernFood.com/portfolio-item/meyers-bageri

Du's Donuts and Coffee

Circle gets the square: scrambled egg grilled cheese with bacon ($4.75), brown butter key lime donut ($3.50). With a special guest appearance by coffee milk.

Du's Donuts and Coffee
107 North 12th St. (Wythe Ave.-Berry St.), Williamsburg, Brooklyn
718-215-8770
www.DusDonuts.com

Ring Ding Bar

PB&J ring ding, with peanut butter cream and raspberry jam ($5).

Ring Ding Bar
At Smorgasburg, Saturdays during the warmer months
90 Kent Ave. (North 7th-North 8th Sts.), Williamsburg, Brooklyn
Daily, inside Duane Park Patisserie
179 Duane St. (Greenwich-Hudson Sts.), Manhattan
212-274-8447
www.Facebook.com/pg/RingDingBar

Bon Chovie

During the first season of Smorgaburg, in 2011, Bon Chovie served its famous fish two ways. The oddly named "original" version was cleaned to remove heads and guts, while "Jersey style" offered the fish whole. Nowadays, by popular demand, the one and only way to enjoy these fried anchovies ($8) is the also the best way to enjoy your summer — head-on!

Bon Chovie
At Smorgasburg, weekends during the warmer months
Saturday: 90 Kent Ave. (North 7th-North 8th Sts.), Williamsburg, Brooklyn
Sunday: Breeze Hill (East Drive at Lincoln Rd.), Prospect Park, Brooklyn
www.BonChovie.com

Korbro Salad Oil, Korchin Bros., Montrose Smoked Fish

Korbro I've discussed before; Montrose, though reportedly a family-owned business for some 60 years, has left little trace other than this sign. Korchin, whose sign is the most faded, has the most celebrated legacy. The successor business, Marshall Smoked Fish, was acquired by an out-of-state company in 2003; it's unclear how much of its fish, if any, is still smoked in Brooklyn.

Korbro Salad Oil, Korchin Bros., Montrose Smoked Fish
Surviving signage, 71 Montrose Ave. (Lorimer-Leonard Sts.), Willamsburg, Brooklyn

Kreung

Despite the misleading pronunciation, the rice noodles in Cambodian kuy teav (kuh Tee-oh, $15) are cousins to the kway teow of the Southeast Asian Chinese diaspora. I prefer the latter noodles stir-fried, with ample wok hei, but rice noodles in a broth that's brimming with beefy fragrance have my newfound appreciation.

Also shown, at another appearance by this pop-up kitchen: ngiom, or cabbage salad (on this evening, with chicken, $10); yucca with coconut milk ($6). Kreung itself is named for a family of seasoning blends that are essential to Khmer cookery, including at least one particularly fiery dip for fresh vegetables. With good fortune, I'll revisit that dish at a pop-up someday soon.

Kreung
Various locations
718-930-7277
www.Facebook.com/KreungCambodia

Tiferes Heymise Bakery

Are these pastries "the same" as rugelach? Several customers, at various South Williamsburg bakeries, took that position. Other commentators call them kipelech, taking note of the pointed ends and the multiple reveals of filling (in this case chocolate, about $8 per pound). Call 'em what you will, but get 'em while they're warm.

Tiferes Heymise Bakery
137 Lee Ave. (Hooper-Hewes Sts.), Williamsburg, Brooklyn
718-388-3352
Closed Saturday

Emmy Squared

Greek-style pies like those at my hometown standby, Hope Pizza, are baked in an oiled pan rather than directly on the oven floor. Perhaps that explains why I took so readily to Emmy Squared, where the pies are also pan-baked, but Detroit style. The pan is deeper; the cornicione, or lip, is taller and crisper; the crust as a whole is a little oilier and chewier; the toppings are terrific.

Shown below ($17 for each six-piece rectangular pie): the Hatchback, which sports Hatch chile peppers, chorizo, and crema; the sausage-pepper-mushroom Deluxe; and the Roni Supreme, good ol' pepperoni amped up with Calabrian chiles.

Emmy Squared
364 Grand St. (at Marcy Ave.), Williamsburg, Brooklyn
718-360-4535
www.EmmySquared.com

Federoff's Roast Pork

Garlic-ridden broccoli rabe, superthin slices of sharp provolone, and Italian long hots (that is, long hot peppers) each supply their obligatory bite, while a still-simmering herb-and bone-stock braising liquid rounds out the flavor of the long-roasted pork itself in Federoff's namesake sandwich ($12). Your sandwich will never be dry, to be sure, but if wet is not wet enough, ask for "overboard" to secure another ladle or two of liquid. The crusty seeded Italian bread can take it — just be sure your cardboard caddy doesn't spring a leak!

Federoff's Roast Pork
At Smorgasburg, weekends during the warmer months
Saturday: 90 Kent Ave. (North 7th-North 8th Sts.), Williamsburg, Brooklyn
Sunday: Pier 5 (near Joralemon St.), Brooklyn Bridge Park
267-257-3551
www.Facebook.com/RoastPorkNYC