Once I dug in, I also admired the delicately matted shreds of wheat, and the restrained rather than syrupy sweetness, of my kanafa ($2). Al-Sham's Jordanian baker was a seven-year veteran of Laziza Sweets, down the block, and the pastries in the large front window gleam at passersby with the self-assurance you'd expect, even from across the street.
Al-Sham Sweets & Pastries
(in the bottom photo, at left, beside Little Morocco)
24-39 Steinway St. (25th Ave.-Astoria Blvd.), Astoria, Queens